Friday afternoon, Napa greeted us with an offensively golden sky.There was a certain kind of light in wine country that made everything look like an expensive perfume ad: rolling vineyards, old olive trees, pale stone roads, cream-colored buildings with terracotta roofs, and air that smelled like warm earth, grapes, eucalyptus, and old money that had learned to speak quietly.The Ricciardi private vineyard estate stood at the end of a long driveway, behind black iron gates that opened automatically as our car approached. Rows of grapevines lined both sides of the road like tiny soldiers who all had trust funds. The main house sat on a low hill, large, elegant, and far too aware of its own beauty. Cream stone, tall black-framed windows, iron balconies, a wide terrace, a long pool off to the right, and a rose garden that looked like the kind of place rich people apologized without ever technically admitting they were wrong.I sat in the passenger seat of Rafael’s car wearing a champagn
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