How Do I Care For And Store A Chun-Li Costume?

Sunlight and humidity are the first two things I worry about when tucking my Chun-Li outfit away after a long day at a convention.

I treat the costume like a fragile heirloom: spot-clean stains right away with a damp cloth and a mild detergent, working from the outside of the stain inward so you don't spread it. For satin, silk-like brocade, or embroidered pieces, I always hand-wash cold and lay flat on a towel to dry; never wring. If your qipao top or skirt has glued trims, painted logos, or metallic finishes, I only dab gently with a barely damp cloth and test a hidden seam first — harsh solvents and dry-cleaning chemicals can wreck paints and glues. For the white boots and spandex gloves, a soft brush and gentle soap usually do the trick; leather gets a tiny amount of conditioner and a shoe tree so the shape stays sharp.

Wigs, buns, and props deserve as much love. I detangle wigs with a wide-tooth brush from the tips up, store them in a net on a stand or in a box with silica packets to keep moisture out. Foam or thermoplastic props (EVA, Worbla) hate heat and pressure — store them flat or hung with supports and keep them away from sunlight to avoid warping or yellowing. Use acid-free tissue to pad folds on ornate parts, and if you're shipping or long-term storing, a breathable garment bag plus a sturdy box with silica packets and a cedar or lavender sachet will do wonders. Little fixes — a needle and matching thread for seam reinforcement, extra snap fasteners, and a tiny bottle of contact cement for foam repairs — have saved me more times than I can count. Treat the costume gently and it’ll reward you by lasting through many battles and photoshoots; I love pulling mine out and seeing the battle scars like trophies.

The quick ritual that saved my favorite Chun-Li set is simple but non-negotiable: rinse, dry, pad, and box.

After a wear I rinse or spot-clean sweat-prone areas (collar, underarms, inner thigh liners) and remove any props or accessories that could corrode or stain. I don’t fold heavily beaded or embroidered panels — instead I lay them flat on a clean towel, layer with acid-free tissue, and roll loosely to avoid hard creases. Wigs get brushed gently, put in a wig net, and laid on a wig head or resealable box; if the style uses buns or buns with pins, I tuck those into a small fabric pouch to keep pins from snagging the costume.

For boots and shoes, I wipe soles and treat leather with a conditioner; fabric shoes get a deodorizing sachet and are left to air fully before storage. Props made of foam or thermoplastics go into shallow boxes with padding and a label noting orientation so I don’t accidentally crush a curve. I also keep a small repair kit — thread, a few snaps, superglue, and matching paint swatches — in the same storage bin so quick fixes don’t become disasters. Over time these tiny habits have kept my costume colors bright and the structure intact, and I always feel a little thrill when I open that box and everything looks like it’s ready for a new scene.

If you’ve ever rushed from a hotel room to the con floor, this short routine will be your best friend.

Immediately after wearing, air the pieces for thirty minutes to let sweat evaporate. I unzip everything, undo hairpieces, and pop removable padding outside to breathe. For obvious dirt, I use a soft toothbrush and a diluted detergent solution to spot-clean stains; stubborn grease can often be lifted with a dab of isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab — but always test where the fabric won’t show. For fabric that tolerates machine washing, I toss it in a mesh laundry bag on a gentle cold cycle, then reshape and air-dry. Anything with embroidery, sequins, or glued trims goes straight to hand-wash or pro cleaning advice.

Long-term, I prefer hanging the main qipao/coat on wide, padded hangers so the shoulders keep their shape and folds don’t become permanent creases. Store boots stuffed with paper or shoe trees in dust bags. For props and armor pieces, label boxes and keep small repair kits (superglue, sandpaper, touch-up paint) nearby; batteries should be removed from any electronics. Little things make a big difference — silica gel to control humidity, cedar or lavender to deter pests, and acid-free tissue to separate delicate layers. I find that a routine like this keeps the costume camera-ready and lowers the stress before each event.

The payoff is simple: less panic, fewer ruined trims, and more confidence on stage — that’s worth the ten minutes of care every time.