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On slow mornings when my hair decides to puff up like it has plans of its own, I really lean into lightweight, texture-first products. For a low taper fade with fluffy hair you want stuff that gives separation and hold without flattening the volume — think sea salt spray as a pre-styler, a light matte clay or cream for shaping, and a fine texturizing powder at the roots when you need an extra lift. I usually spritz a salt spray into towel-damp hair, scrunch with my fingers, then blow-dry on low with a round brush or my hand to encourage the fluff rather than smoothing it down. If I'm going out and want that lived-in look, I follow with a pea-sized amount of water-based matte clay worked between my palms, then rake through the top and crown. For stubborn spots I'll use a little fiber or paste for extra grip, but sparingly — too much product kills the airiness. A light flexible hairspray keeps everything in place without turning the style into armor. Maintenance-wise, a sulfate-free shampoo every other day and a dry shampoo on day two keeps the shape without weighing the hair down, and a leave-in conditioner used only on the ends prevents frizz. This combo keeps the fade crisp and the fluffy top lively, which I love because it looks styled but still effortless, like I actually slept well even if I didn't.

I can't help but geek out over the hockey flow — it's one of those styles that looks effortless but actually wants a little intention. For a classic, wearable flow I aim for about 6–10 inches (15–25 cm) at the longest points: that’s usually the crown and the back. The idea is for the hair to sit past the ears and either kiss the collar or fall to the top of the shoulders when it’s straight. Shorter than about 6 inches usually won’t give you that sweeping, helmet-buffed look; much longer than 10–12 inches starts to feel more like a mane than a flow, unless you want a dramatic version. Sides and layers are where the cut makes or breaks. I like the sides to be blended but not buzzed — somewhere around 3–5 inches (7–13 cm) so the hair can tuck behind the ears or sweep back without looking boxy. Ask for long, textured layers through the back to remove bulk and create movement; point-cutting or razor texturizing helps thin thick hair so it won’t balloon out. The neckline should be natural and slightly shaggy rather than cleanly tapered — that soft, lived-in edge is part of the charm. Styling-wise, I keep it low-effort: towel dry, apply a light sea-salt spray or creamy texturizer, then either let it air dry or rough-blow and brush back with fingers. If you wear helmets, add an extra half-inch to the crown so the flow re-forms after sessions. Trim every 6–10 weeks to maintain shape, and be open with your barber about how much helmet time you get — that little detail changes the exact length I request. I love how the right length turns a messy mop into something that actually feels stylish and sporty.

If you're trying to get that crunchy, textured look in cartoon hair, I reach for a mix of brush engines and texture overlays more often than any single magic tool. I usually start in 'Photoshop' or 'Procreate' depending on whether I'm at the desk or on the couch—both have brush settings that let me add grain, scatter, spacing and tilt sensitivity so every stroke reads like a clump of hair instead of a flat shape. I love textured round brushes, bristle brushes, and scatter/particle brushes for building chunky strands; then I switch to a thin speckled brush for flyaways. Pressure and tilt on the stylus are tiny secret weapons: they make the edges feel organic without needing a million strokes. Layer tricks are huge. I paint a solid base, block in shadows and highlights on clipped layers, then throw a paper or grain texture above with Multiply or Overlay and mask it so the texture sits only where I want. Smudge tools with textured tips, or the 'mixer brush' in 'Photoshop', can soften transitions while keeping grain. For sharper detail I go in with a textured pen at low opacity to add cross-hatching, tiny strokes and worn edges. And if I want metallic shine or glossier manga-style highlights, I use a small, dense brush with Color Dodge on a new layer. Hardware matters too: a newer tablet with tilt/pressure makes textured brushes sing, and an iPad with Apple Pencil plus 'Procreate' Brush Studio lets me tweak grain and jitter on the fly. When I want dimensional hair in a 3D project, I switch gears to hair cards or particle hair in Blender — those use texture maps and alpha cards, which is basically the same principle translated into 3D. Personally, the combo of textured brushes + clipping masks + an actual scanned paper grain is my go-to; it gives cartoon hair personality and grit that flat fills never do.

Bright, splashy gloss on cartoon hair comes alive when you mix a few simple Procreate brushes and treat highlights like sculptural light, not just glitter. For me the workhorse is the Soft Airbrush for building smooth, glossy gradients — I lay down a mid-tone base, then use the Hard Airbrush at lower opacity to block in fast, clean shadows and large reflections. After that I switch to a small, hard round brush (low spacing, high opacity) to paint those sharp specular highlights you see on cartoon hair. I like to keep those highlights slightly off-white and very clean-edged so the hair reads shiny even at thumbnail size. A second pass uses the Smudge tool with a soft-textured brush to pull tiny streaks along the hair flow, adding motion and subtle banding; this is how I get that painted, stylized sheen without making it look photo-real. Clipping masks are lifesavers — put your highlights on a clipped layer set to 'Add' or 'Linear Dodge (Add)' at 30–60% to make the glow pop. For crisp edges around highlights, reduce brush size and boost Streamline for smoother strokes, or use the Studio Pen for a nerveless, clean line. If you want punchier, cartoony gloss, try layering: base color, hard-edged cel-shading with a round brush, soft airbrush for gradient transitions, then tiny bright dots and thin crescent highlights with a technical or nib brush. I often finish by duplicating the highlights layer, blurring it slightly and setting it to Add to get that glow halo — it reads glossy even on small screens. I geek out over how a few careful strokes turn flat color into glossy hair; it's one of those tiny wins that never gets old.

If you've got color in your hair and you're eyeing a product labeled 'AFK' (or any unfamiliar shampoo), the short practical truth is: it depends on the formula, not the name. Read the ingredient list. Sulfates like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) are the usual culprits that strip dye faster. If the label shows gentle surfactants (cocamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside, sodium cocoyl isethionate) and explicitly says 'color-safe' or 'for color-treated hair,' that's a good sign. Also pay attention to pH and extra claims: shampoos with added UV filters, antioxidants, or moisturizers (like glycerin, panthenol, or oils) tend to protect color tones. Avoid shampoos marketed as clarifying, detox, or deep-cleansing if you want to preserve vibrancy. A strand test helps: wash a small hidden section and watch for noticeable fading. Beyond ingredients, wash less often, rinse with cooler water, use a color-safe conditioner or mask, and alternate with a specially formulated color-preserving shampoo. Personally, I trust products that list mild surfactants and show 'sulfate-free' prominently — that combo has kept my reds and brunettes looking fresher for weeks.

Today I want to share my go-to toolkit for sculpting Kakashi's mask and hair — I get a little giddy every time I work on a 'Naruto' themed cake. For the mask I usually start with gum paste (with a pinch of tylose or CMC mixed in) because it dries firm and holds that sharp half-mask shape over the face. I roll it thin on a silicone mat using a small rolling pin or mini pasta machine, then cut the eye slit and edges with a sharp X-Acto or scalpel. A ball tool and foam pad help thin the edges and give that natural contour around the nose and cheek. For black finish I prefer black fondant for smooth coverage, but you can paint gum paste with concentrated gel colors thinned in food-grade alcohol for deeper black without softening the paste. For the hair, I love using modeling chocolate for sculpting chunky spikes — it smooths beautifully and doesn't crack like fondant sometimes does. If I need volume, I build an armature from floral wire or wooden skewers wrapped in cling and cover it with Rice Krispies treats (RKT) to bulk up the shape, then layer modeling chocolate or gum paste over that. A set of modeling tools (veiners, veining tool, ball tool, knife), silicone texture mats, and a veining wheel make the spiky texture read from a distance. Small rounded cutters and a toothpick are great for recreating the stray hairs and direction lines. Other essentials: edible glue, clear piping gel, a jar of cornflour or powdered sugar for dusting, stainless-steel palette knives, and a good set of dusting colors (black, charcoal, pewter) and matte finish spray for the final look. An airbrush can add subtle shadows across the mask and hair spikes; if you don't have one, dry brushing with powdered petal dust works well. I always let pieces dry on foam blocks with pins to hold angles, and I assemble delicate parts on-site to avoid transport damage — seeing Kakashi’s eye peeking through that mask never fails to make me smile.

Totally doable — barbers can absolutely create a modern mullet with a burst fade on curly hair, but there are a few specific things I always look for when booking the cut. First off, curls behave differently when dry, so a barber who understands shrinkage and natural curl clumping is gold. I usually ask them to work with my hair both wet and dry: they’ll start by outlining the shape while damp, then refine and texturize when it’s dry so the final silhouette reads right. Technique-wise, the burst fade is clipped around the ear and fans out into the longer back, which actually works beautifully with curls because it keeps the volume in the right places without leaving a heavy, boxy feel. I like when they combine clipper work for the fade with scissor-over-comb and some point-cutting in the back to preserve movement. Tell them how much length you want to keep on the crown and the back—curly mullets can range from soft and shaggy to sharp and structured. For daily life, I use a lightweight curl cream to define the top and a little sea-salt spray at the ends to keep that mullet texture. Trims every 6–8 weeks keep the fade crisp and the mullet shape intentional. Honestly, when it’s done well, it feels underratedly cool and really flattering, so I’d say go for it if you want something edgy but manageable.

Totally fell down a rabbit hole trying different gels on my curls, and Arata was one I kept coming back to. The first time I used it I applied to soaking-wet hair after a light leave-in. My 2C/3A waves and curls got this soft-but-defined look without that crunchy helmet feeling. It gave a medium hold that lasted through a humid afternoon and the frizz was noticeably tamed. I liked that it didn’t weigh my hair down, so my roots still had bounce. When I diffused, the curl pattern clumped nicely and left a gentle sheen instead of greasy shine. If your curls are tighter or very thick, you might need more product or to pair it with a cream for extra moisture. For finer curls, a pea-sized amount spread between palms and scrunched in is enough. To finish, I scrunched out the cast once dry to reveal soft definition. Personally, for day-to-day styling I found Arata to be a pleasant, versatile gel that’s become a staple on my wash-and-go days.