Where Can I Read 'Inner Eyes' Online?

Bright and excited: Saori Hayami is the voice behind the lead in 'Raven of the Inner Palace' Season 2. Her performance is one of those things that instantly anchors the show — calm, refined, and quietly expressive. She has this way of making even the most subtle moments feel loaded with history and emotion, which suits the courtly, mysterious atmosphere of 'Raven of the Inner Palace' perfectly. If you watched Season 1, you’ll notice she reprises the role with the same poise but with a touch more emotional nuance in Season 2. I found myself paying more attention to the small inflections this time around; Hayami-sensei really knows how to sell a look or a pause through voice alone, and that elevates scenes that on paper might seem straightforward. Honestly, her casting feels like a peace-of-mind promise that the character will stay consistent and compelling — I’m genuinely happy with how she carries the lead this season.

Studying real faces taught me the foundations that make stylized eyes feel believable. I like to start with the bone structure: the brow ridge, the orbital rim, and the position of the cheek and nose — these determine how the eyelids fold and cast shadows. When I work from life or a photo, I trace the eyelid as a soft ribbon that wraps around the sphere of the eyeball. That mental image helps me place the crease, the inner corner (where an epicanthic fold might sit), and the way the skin softly bunches at the outer corner. Practically, I sketch the eyeball first, then draw the lids hugging it, and refine the crease and inner corner anatomy so the shape reads as three-dimensional. For Asian features specifically, I make a point of mixing observations: many people have a lower or subtle supratarsal crease, some have a strong fold, and the epicanthic fold can alter the visible inner corner. Rather than forcing a single “look,” I vary eyelid thickness, crease height, and lash direction. Lashes are often finer and curve gently; heavier lashes can look generic if overdone. Lighting is huge — specular highlights, rim light on the tear duct, and soft shadows under the brow make the eye feel alive. I usually add two highlights (a primary bright dot and a softer fill) and a faint translucency on the lower eyelid to suggest wetness. On the practical side, I practice with portrait studies, mirror sketches, and photo collections that show ethnic diversity. I avoid caricature by treating each eye as unique instead of defaulting to a single template. The payoff is when a stylized character suddenly reads as a real person—those subtle anatomical choices make the difference, and it always makes me smile when it clicks.

I geek out over eyes—seriously, they’re the little theater where a character’s whole mood plays out. When I sketch, I start by thinking about the silhouette more than the details: bold almond, round and wide, slit-like for villains, soft droop for tired characters. That silhouette sets the personality. I use a light construction grid—two horizontal guides for the top lid and the bottom of the iris, a vertical center for tilt—then block in the brow ridge and tear duct. That immediately tells me where the highlights will sit and how big the iris should be relative to the white, which is the single biggest factor that reads as age or youth. Big irises and large highlights read cute and innocent (think of the dreamy sparkle in 'Sailor Moon'), while smaller irises with more visible sclera can make characters feel mature or intense. For linework and depth, I treat lashes and lids like curved planes, not just decorative strokes. The top lash line usually carries the heaviest line weight because it casts a tiny shadow; use thicker ink or a heavier brush there. Keep the lower lashes sparse unless you’re drawing a stylized shoujo eye—those often have delicate lower lashes and starry catchlights. For anime-style shading, I blend a gradient across the iris from dark at the top (occluded by the eyelid) to lighter at the bottom and then add one or two catchlights—one crisp white specular and one softer reflected light near the pupil. To sell wetness, add a subtle rim highlight where the sclera meets the lower lid and a faint spec on the tear duct. In black-and-white manga, I’ll suggest screentone or cross-hatching on the upper sclera area to imply shadow; digital artists can use Multiply layers for the same effect. Practice routines I swear by: redraw the same eye shape 20 times with tiny variations—tilt, distance between eyes, eyelid fold depth. Then do perspective drills: tilt the head up, down, three-quarter, extreme foreshortening. Study real eyes too—photos show how eyelid thickness, skin folds, and eye moisture behave. Compare those observations to how stylists cheat in 'Naruto' or 'One Piece' and deliberately simplify. Don’t be afraid to break symmetry slightly; perfect symmetry looks robotic. Finally, emotion comes from tiny changes: a half-closed lid softens, a sharply arched brow angers, inner-corner creases can add sorrow. When I finish, I like to flip the canvas and nudge a line or two—if it still reads well mirrored, it’s doing its job. Drawing eyes never gets old for me; each tweak feels like finding a new expression, and that keeps me excited to draw for hours.

My go-to pencils for soft, natural eye shading are really all about a small, complementary range rather than a single ‘magic’ stick. I usually start a drawing with a harder pencil—something like 2H or H—very lightly to lay out the eye shape, eyelid folds, and pupil placement. That keeps my construction crisp without smudging. After that I switch to HB or 2B for building the midtones: these are perfect for the subtle gradations in the whites of the eye, the gradual shadow under the brow, and the soft plane changes on the eyelids. For the shadowed areas where you want a lush, velvety feel—a shadowed iris rim, deep crease, or lashes’ roots—I reach for 4B and 6B. Those softer leads give rich, blendable darks that aren’t crunchy, so you can get a soft transition rather than a hard line. Paper and tools matter as much as pencil grade. A smooth hot-press or Bristol board lets you achieve those delicate gradients without the tooth grabbing too much graphite; slightly toothier papers work too if you want more texture. Blending tools—tortillons, a soft brush, or even a bit of tissue—help turn the 2B–4B layers into silky skin tones, but I try to avoid over-blending so the drawing retains life. A kneaded eraser is indispensable: pull out tiny highlights on the iris and the moist glint at the tear duct, and lift delicate edges near lashes. For razor-sharp details like individual lashes or the darkest pupil edge, I’ll pull out a 0.3mm mechanical pencil or a very hard 4H for tiny, crisp catchlights after shading. If you want brand suggestions, I gravitate toward Staedtler Mars Lumograph and Faber-Castell 9000 because their grades are consistent and predictable—very helpful when layering. For bolder, creamier blacks, Caran d’Ache Grafwood or softer Derwent pencils work great. Experiment: try a simple set of H, HB, 2B, 4B, 6B and practice building values from light to dark in thin layers, saving the softest pencils for the final mood and shadow accents. Eyes are all about contrast and subtle edges; the right pencil mix plus patient layering will make them read as soft, wet, and alive. I always feel a little thrill when a rough sketch suddenly looks like a living gaze.

Yes — beginners can absolutely learn to draw eyes realistically, and I still get a kick out of watching that transformation happen on paper. I broke the process down into tiny, repeatable steps when I was starting: map the basic almond shape, place the iris and pupil, note the eyelid creases, and think of the eyeball as a sphere under the skin. I spent a lot of time studying how light wraps around a sphere and how the cornea creates that bright specular highlight. That one little white dot makes an eye feel alive. I also focused on values more than lines; early attempts loaded up on harsh outlines, but shading gives volume and depth. If you want a path, I recommend building three habits: daily 10–20 minute quick studies from photos, weekly longer shaded drawings, and regular anatomy checks (look at 'Drawing on the Right Side of the Brain' or anatomy pages). Use a soft pencil for mid-tones and a harder one for fine lashes and lashes' direction, and don’t smudge indiscriminately — smudging can flatten contrast. I still get a small thrill the first time a gazing eye looks believable on the page.

Whenever I watch close-ups of her on screen, Elizabeth Taylor's eyes feel like a private conversation you're accidentally invited to. There's the color — that famous violet-blue that photographers and gossip columns loved to tease out — but color alone doesn't explain it. Her eyes had a big, slightly almond shape and the kind of deep-set lashes and brows that framed them like dark velvet. Add the contrast with her porcelain skin and raven hair, and the eyes pop in a way that's almost cinematic on its own. Beyond anatomy, her acting gave those eyes purpose. She used them as punctuation: a slow look could carry sarcasm, longing, or danger without a single line. Makeup and lighting in films like 'Cleopatra' and 'Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?' amplified the effect — heavy kohl, strategic rim lighting, and tight framing pulled you into the irises. Combine all that with the cultural myth around her (diamonds, drama, iconic style) and you get something more than pretty — an unforgettable presence. Try pausing on a still from her films and you’ll see layers: biology, craft, and persona working together.

There's something about Elizabeth Taylor on film that still catches me every time — not just the legend, but those eyes that seemed to change with the light. When I look at photos from 'Cleopatra' or her red carpet moments, what really made her violet-blue eyes sing were cool, reflective jewels: big white diamonds and platinum settings created a bright, mirror-like sparkle that pulled focus to her gaze. Diamonds framed her eyes by reflecting back the camera lights, so chandelier earrings and solitaire studs did more than decorate — they brightened the whole face. On the other hand, she also leaned into colored stones that echoed or contrasted with her eye color. Deep sapphires and amethysts echoed the cooler tones in her irises, while rich emeralds offered a lush contrast that made any hint of green pop. Pearls — like the famous 'La Peregrina' she wore sometimes — softened the look and gave a warm, classic glow that made her eye color seem softer on film. Metal tone mattered too: platinum and white gold read as cool and crisp on camera, yellow gold warmed the complexion and could bring out different undertones in her eyes. If you want that Taylor effect now, think big but balanced: face-framing earrings, a collar or high necklace to lift the face, and gems that either echo or contrast your eye tones under bright light. I still catch myself studying those magazine spreads for tip details every few months.

My take is a mix of film-geek nitpicking and plain admiration. Elizabeth Taylor's eyes were famously striking — people still debate whether they were truly 'violet' or just a magical trick of genetics plus cinema. From everything I've read and seen, the core fact is that her eye color was natural, a deep blue-gray with a rare quality that photographers, makeup artists, and lighting happily exaggerated. In practical terms, contact lenses that change color weren't mainstream or comfortable in the 1950s and 1960s. Studios relied on kohl, mascara, specially mixed eye shadows, and clever lighting to make her peepers pop in films like 'Cleopatra' and 'Who's Afraid of Virginia Woolf?'. Close-up lenses, soft focus filters, and the film stock itself could all create a jewel-like sheen. So while she may have used corrective lenses off-camera or for sharpness, the cinematic 'effect' most fans notice comes from makeup, cinematography, and natural eye pigment — not a wardrobe of colored contacts. I still get a little giddy every time I watch those classic close-ups; her eyes feel like a small miracle on screen.