How Do I Clean A Follett Ice Machine Properly?

When I’m in a hurry but still want solid results, I use a straightforward checklist approach that works every time with a Follett ice maker. Power down and shut off the water, then remove and discard the ice. Pull the bin access panels and give the interior a visual inspection — any brown or white scale, cloudy ice, or slime means it’s cleaning day. I usually start with a descaler that the manufacturer approves (citric-acid-based is common) and circulate or apply it to the evaporator and water trough; let it sit long enough to loosen deposits, then scrub gently with a soft brush. Rinse thoroughly until there’s no residue.

After rinsing, I sanitize with an NSF-rated sanitizer at the recommended dilution, making sure to hit seams, gaskets, and the underside of the bin lid. Flush the system, reassemble, restore power and water, and run a couple of batches of ice that I toss — safety first. Monthly deep cleans are my baseline, with quick wipes and filter checks weekly. If the machine is in heavy use, I tighten the schedule and keep the condenser free of dust so cooling stays efficient. Honestly, clean ice tastes better and the machine just hums along smoother — that little ritual of maintenance makes my life easier and keeps guests happy.

I get a weird sort of satisfaction from seeing a spotless Ice bin, so cleaning a Follett machine is kind of my happy chore — and once you get the routine down, it’s surprisingly quick and effective. First Things First: safety and prep. Turn the unit off and disconnect power (pull the plug or flip the breaker), and shut off the water supply. Wear chemical-resistant gloves and eye protection; those cleaners and sanitizers do their job well but can irritate skin and eyes. Clear out all the ice — either discard it or keep it out of the way in a sanitized cooler if you need a batch later — and open the bin and access panels so you can reach the evaporator, water trough, and internal surfaces.

Next, follow a two-step cleaning and sanitizing process. Use a Follett-approved cleaner or a citric-acid-based descaler mixed exactly per the label; these remove scale and mineral build-up on the evaporator and water path. If your model has a built-in cleaning cycle, use it and circulate the cleaner for the recommended time (commonly 15–30 minutes); if not, apply the solution manually with a soft-bristle brush and let it soak in the heavier deposits. Don’t use steel wool or harsh abrasives — nylon brushes and non-abrasive pads are your friends. After descaling, thoroughly rinse by running fresh water through the system until no cleaner or foam remains. Then use an NSF-approved sanitizer (often a food-grade quaternary ammonium or similar) at the specified concentration, ensuring the sanitizer contacts all ice-making surfaces for the correct dwell time. Drain and rinse again.

Don’t forget the extras: clean or replace the water filter cartridges on schedule, vacuum or brush the condenser coils and air intakes to keep efficiency high, and check drain lines for clogs. Wipe exterior surfaces and door gaskets with mild detergent or sanitizer, and reassemble everything before restoring power and water. Run a test cycle and discard the first one or two batches of ice; you want to make sure no cleaner or sanitizer remains. For frequency, I wipe the bin and check filters weekly, do a full clean-and-sanitize monthly in normal use, and tighten that to every 2–3 weeks if the machine is in heavy commercial service or the water’s very hard. Keeping a simple log of dates, who cleaned it, and any parts changed helps track maintenance over time. I find that a little consistency saves big headaches later — dirty machines taste bad and run inefficiently, and clean ones just feel right.