Who Designed Gong Yoo'S Suit In Squid Game?

On slow mornings when my hair decides to puff up like it has plans of its own, I really lean into lightweight, texture-first products. For a low taper fade with fluffy hair you want stuff that gives separation and hold without flattening the volume — think sea salt spray as a pre-styler, a light matte clay or cream for shaping, and a fine texturizing powder at the roots when you need an extra lift. I usually spritz a salt spray into towel-damp hair, scrunch with my fingers, then blow-dry on low with a round brush or my hand to encourage the fluff rather than smoothing it down. If I'm going out and want that lived-in look, I follow with a pea-sized amount of water-based matte clay worked between my palms, then rake through the top and crown. For stubborn spots I'll use a little fiber or paste for extra grip, but sparingly — too much product kills the airiness. A light flexible hairspray keeps everything in place without turning the style into armor. Maintenance-wise, a sulfate-free shampoo every other day and a dry shampoo on day two keeps the shape without weighing the hair down, and a leave-in conditioner used only on the ends prevents frizz. This combo keeps the fade crisp and the fluffy top lively, which I love because it looks styled but still effortless, like I actually slept well even if I didn't.

Let me walk you through my favorite setup for drawing Deku if you want something simple but effective. I start with a couple of pencils: an HB or B for construction lines and a 2B or 4B for darker linework and quick shading. A small, soft kneaded eraser and a clean vinyl eraser are lifesavers — kneaded for gentle highlights and vinyl for stubborn marks. For paper, a smooth sketchbook or a sheet of Bristol (smooth surface) keeps lines crisp and works well if you decide to ink. For inking I like thin-felt pens (0.1–0.5) and a brush pen for hair strands and dynamic line weight. If you want color later, cheap alcohol markers or a handful of colored pencils (greens, skin tones, and a few neutrals) cover Deku’s palette. For easy tutorials, pick ones that break Deku down into simple shapes: circle for the skull, cross-line for facial direction, rectangles for the torso. Tracing paper or a window tracing method is perfect for early practice, and a lightbox is a nice upgrade. Practice expression sheets, three-quarter head rotations, and quick gesture poses to capture his energy from 'My Hero Academia'. I find this combo keeps the process fun and not intimidating, and I usually end up smiling at the results.

My haircut shelf always has room for the modern mullet with a burst fade — it's one of those looks that somehow balances edge and polish in a way few cuts do. I like to think of the burst fade as the quiet hero: it scoops the hair around the ears and temples so the focus stays on the top and the tail, which gives you a lot of control for shaping how a mullet interacts with your face. If you’ve got an oval face, congratulations — this shape is forgiving. I’d keep the top slightly textured and the back medium length to let the mullet’s personality show without overwhelming the features. For round faces, the trick is height: add volume on top and a slightly longer, tapered tail to create vertical lines that lengthen the face. Square faces benefit from softer edges; a lower burst fade and a bit of fringe or choppy layers on top will soften a strong jawline. Heart-shaped faces work well with a longer tail and side-swept bangs to balance a narrower chin, while long/oblong faces want less height on top and a fuller tail to avoid exaggerating length. Styling-wise, I lean on matte paste or light clay so the texture reads without being shiny, and a diffuser if you blow-dry to keep natural movement. Don’t underestimate facial hair — a neat stubble or short beard can tie everything together, especially for round and square faces. I find the burst fade mullet is endlessly adaptable; change the fade height or the tail length and it becomes a new statement. Personally, I love that it can be both retro and fresh depending on how you wear it.

A 'good man' arc often needs music that feels like it's gently nudging the heart, not shouting. I really like starting with small, intimate textures — solo piano, muted strings, or a single acoustic guitar — to paint his humanity and vulnerabilities. That quietness gives space for internal doubt, moral choices, and those little acts of kindness that reveal character. As the story stacks obstacles on him, I lean into evolving motifs: a simple two-note figure that grows into a fuller theme, perhaps layered with warm brass or a choir when he chooses sacrifice. For conflict scenes, sparse percussion and dissonant strings keep tension without making him feel villainous; it's important the music suggests struggle, not corruption. Think of heroic restraint rather than bombast. When victory or acceptance comes, I love a restrained catharsis — strings swelling into a remembered melody, maybe with a folky instrument to hint at roots, or a subtle electronic pad to show change. Using a recurring motif that matures alongside him makes the whole arc feel earned. It never fails to make me a little misty when done right.

For a genius-detective mystery film I lean hard into contrasts: cerebral minimalism for the inner monologue and tense, jazzy or electronic textures for the city and chase sequences. I love the idea of pairing sparse piano or single violin lines—think Ólafur Arnalds or Max Richter-style motifs—with a colder, synth-based bed like Vangelis' work on 'Blade Runner'. For big revelation moments, the bleak, industrial atmosphere of Trent Reznor and Atticus Ross from 'The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo' or the slow-burn dread of Jóhann Jóhannsson's 'Prisoners' create that mix of intellect and unease. Layering is everything. I'll use a noir jazz cue—something channeling 'Cowboy Bebop' energy in a smoky bar—then suddenly drop to an electronics pulse for a deduction montage. Bernard Herrmann's precision for cueing psychological twists is priceless, while Hans Zimmer's low organ brass from 'Inception' can underline existential stakes. The trick is not to overwhelm: leave space, let diegetic sound breathe, and use leitmotifs so the detective's mental patterns become musical signatures. That blend hits me every time and keeps the mystery feeling smart and alive.

My go-to brush collection for watercolor cupcakes reads like a little team of quirky friends: a big round for the base wash, a medium round for shaping the frosting, a very small round or 000 for sprinkles and fine lines, and a rigger/liner for those delicate swirl tails. I usually reach for a Kolinsky-style round (sizes 6–10 for the dome of the frosting, 2–4 for midtones, and 0–000 for detailing) because the tip holds a sharp point while the belly stores enough water for smooth, consistent strokes. When I'm doing wet-on-wet buttercream blends I love using a mop or a large round (size 12–14) to lay down soft gradients without hard edges. For texture — like the crackle on a sugar cookie base or the crumbly edges of a cupcake — a dry brush or a stiff synthetic filbert gives that pleasing roughness. A rigger or round liner is my secret weapon for long chocolate drips and tiny sprinkle strings; its long hairs keep a steady, even line. Toss in a small fan for light powdered sugar effects and a spotter for tiny dots and you're set. Brush care matters: rinse in clean water, reshape tips, never leave brushes standing in water, and use a gentle soap now and then. I pair these brushes with 300gsm cold-pressed paper and a limited watercolor palette so the cupcake colors stay deliciously vibrant. Painting cupcakes feels like baking without an oven — buttery, forgiving, and oddly calming.

especially for balancing a round face. For me the key is adding height and angles: look for hats with a taller crown and a medium-to-wide brim that’s slightly angled or asymmetric. A fedora-style with a defined pinch at the crown or a teardrop/top-dented crown creates a vertical line that lengthens the face. I also love rancher-style hats with a crisp brim because the straighter brim edge gives a nice contrast to softer facial curves. Avoid super round crowns, tiny brims, or extremely floppy bucket-like styles that echo the shape of your face. Materials matter too — firmer felts keep their shape and provide that structure you want, while floppy straw or overly soft knit can swallow features. Color-wise, a darker brim or a hat with a subtle band draws the eye upward and adds definition. Styling tips I live by: tilt the hat slightly back or to the side to expose some forehead, pair it with longer hair or vertical earrings to elongate the silhouette, and try a side part to break the roundness. When I wear my structured Gigi Pip hat this way, my face feels framed instead of boxed in, and I walk out feeling a little bolder.

Whenever I pick up a pencil to design Miles' suit I like to start with a clear silhouette — that single shape has to read from a distance and scream 'Spider' without losing Miles' street-smart vibe. I usually sketch a few quick silhouettes first: low, crouched, high-leap, and a relaxed standing pose. Each silhouette tells me how the suit will fold and stretch. From there I lock proportion choices: slightly lankier limbs than Peter's classic proportions, a smaller torso, and a mask with larger expressive eyes. Those eye shapes are everything for emotion — try different crescent sizes until the face feels young and agile. Once the pose and silhouette are nailed, I dive into surface design. The classic Miles color scheme is bold: mostly black with red webbing and a red spider emblem. Play with where the red lives — full chest emblem, neck-to-shoulder streaks, or a fragmented graffiti-like design. I love asymmetry: one arm with tighter webbing, the other with a smoother black sleeve, or a red glove only on one hand. For webbing, draw lines that radiate from the center of the emblem and have them curve with the torso; make the lines thicker toward the center to sell depth. The mask's eye lenses can be simple white shapes or stylized with a faint black rim — think about how those eyes will read in silhouette and close-up. Texture is crucial: decide whether the suit is matte athletic fabric, glossy tactical rubber, or a layered hoodie-over-suit look. I often add a visible seam pattern, subtle fabric weave, or paint-splatter grit to keep the street-art feel inspired by 'Spider-Man: Into the Spider-Verse'. When it comes to rendering, lighting makes the design pop. Use a strong rim light to separate Miles from dark backgrounds, and a soft colored fill (cool blue or cyan) to hint at his venom powers. For highlights, choose a slightly desaturated red for midtones and a bright saturated red for speculars; black stays deep but allow subtle reflections to suggest the material. Small details sell realism: scuffed sneakers, a folded hood, taped fingers, or a small graffiti sticker on the belt. Don’t forget narrative variants — a stealth black-on-black suit, a punk-styled jacket variation, or a high-tech armored take for different stories. Above all, iterate: thumbnails, light-and-shadow studies, and quick color passes will help you find the best combination. I get a real kick out of experimenting with one tiny tweak — a different spider emblem or swapped sleeve color — and suddenly Miles feels fresh again.