How To Draw Dragon Scales

Studying real faces taught me the foundations that make stylized eyes feel believable. I like to start with the bone structure: the brow ridge, the orbital rim, and the position of the cheek and nose — these determine how the eyelids fold and cast shadows. When I work from life or a photo, I trace the eyelid as a soft ribbon that wraps around the sphere of the eyeball. That mental image helps me place the crease, the inner corner (where an epicanthic fold might sit), and the way the skin softly bunches at the outer corner. Practically, I sketch the eyeball first, then draw the lids hugging it, and refine the crease and inner corner anatomy so the shape reads as three-dimensional. For Asian features specifically, I make a point of mixing observations: many people have a lower or subtle supratarsal crease, some have a strong fold, and the epicanthic fold can alter the visible inner corner. Rather than forcing a single “look,” I vary eyelid thickness, crease height, and lash direction. Lashes are often finer and curve gently; heavier lashes can look generic if overdone. Lighting is huge — specular highlights, rim light on the tear duct, and soft shadows under the brow make the eye feel alive. I usually add two highlights (a primary bright dot and a softer fill) and a faint translucency on the lower eyelid to suggest wetness. On the practical side, I practice with portrait studies, mirror sketches, and photo collections that show ethnic diversity. I avoid caricature by treating each eye as unique instead of defaulting to a single template. The payoff is when a stylized character suddenly reads as a real person—those subtle anatomical choices make the difference, and it always makes me smile when it clicks.

Every time I head into the Wilderness to hunt dragons I get this little electric buzz — brutal black dragons show up in the eastern Wilderness, specifically around the Lava Maze / Chaos Temple area in the multi-combat zone. From memory and a lot of runs, they tend to patrol the lava-maze-ish corridors and the open ground east of the Chaos Temple; that whole chunk of the Wilderness is their home turf. They’re proper high-risk targets because you’re in multi-combat and in deep Wilderness, so expect other players to be nearby and ready to PK. If you want to actually reach them I usually teleport to Edgeville and run straight north across the ditch, then head east toward the Lava Maze/Chaos Temple coordinates on your map. Bring reliable dragonfire protection — an anti-dragon shield or antifire potions — and decent melee or ranged gear. I tend to use Protect from Magic if I’m getting smacked by their fire, and have a teleport ready (varrock/house/looting tele) if things go south. Drops are worth it but not guaranteed; I always keep my prayers on and my mount of patience ready. It’s a tense, rewarding spot and I love the adrenaline, even if I lose a pack once in a while.

If I had to build one all-out melee kit for putting Brutal Black Dragons down fastest in 'Old School RuneScape', I’d focus on sheer single-target DPS plus a way to chew through their defences. My go-to combo is a high-accuracy stab or crush weapon (depending on your gear) paired with heavy strength bonuses, Piety, and a Dragon Warhammer/Bandos Godsword for the defence drop. For me that usually looks like a 'Ghrazi rapier' for raw stab accuracy and fast consistent hits, or the 'Abyssal bludgeon' if I want heavy crush damage — either of those will outpace most other melee choices on a single target. I slot a 'Dragon warhammer' in the inventory to smash their defence whenever the special is up; that little defence nerf multiplies your DPS over the fight. Armor-wise I favor a strength-focused setup: 'Bandos' chest and tassets (or the strongest hybrid chest you’ve got), 'Barrows gloves', 'Primordial boots' or 'Dragon boots', and an 'Amulet of torture' or 'Strength amulet'. Bring prayer gear (a switch to a prayer-boosting cape or using a 'Fire cape'/'Infernal cape' depending on what you own), and always run 'Piety'. Inventory should be super attack + super strength (or a single super combat potion), plenty of high-healing food like sharks/rocktails, a couple of restore potions for prayer, and an antidragonfire potion or an antifire shield — Brutal Blacks will spit dragonfire. Playstyle: burst with the Warhammer/Godsword special early to lower Defence, then pound them with rapier or bludgeon while keeping prayers up. If you want absolute fastest, a maxed player with 'Ghrazi rapier' + 'Dragon warhammer' specials timed perfectly will usually net the quickest kills; the bludgeon shines if you prefer higher max hits against their defences. Personally, I love the rhythm of popping that special then watching the HP drop — feels super satisfying every time.

Quick heads-up: respawns in old-school generally stick to the same engine rules during events unless Jagex clearly says otherwise. From my experience hunting tough monsters, brutal black dragons follow the usual NPC respawn rhythm for their location — they don't get magical instant respawns just because there's a world event going on. Expect a spawn cycle on the order of a few dozen seconds (roughly 30–60s in most open-area camps), although high-value or instanced encounters can take longer. What changes during events is mostly what spawns are allowed to exist at all. If the event replaces NPCs in an area, or the event triggers a cutscene or temporary instancing, that can pause or remove normal spawns. Otherwise, each world keeps its own independent spawn state, so world-hopping is still the fastest way to find fresh brutal blacks if you're farming. I also watch the in-game event messages and patch notes — Jagex will call out any special spawn changes for festival content. Personally I prefer to farm outside peak event hotspots to avoid weird spawn suppression; it's more predictable and I can keep a steady kill rate while still enjoying the seasonal hype.

I get excited talking about why the brutal black dragon in 'Old School RuneScape' is considered such a money-maker, because it’s one of those encounters that mixes dependable loot with the chance for big spikes. First off, the core reason is simple: the resources it drops—bones and hides—are always in demand. Bones feed prayer training and hide is used in crafting, so those items have a steady buyer base. On top of that steady income, the Brutal Black Dragon has a handful of rarer items on its table that can sell for a lot on the Grand Exchange when they show up, and that possibility of a rare high-value drop makes every kill feel like it could pay off big. Beyond mere drops, how you kill them matters. The fight is fast if you optimize your setup—good gear, the right potions, and an efficient route between spawns. That translates directly to GP per hour: more kills, more loot. There are also QoL synergies like slayer assignments or group routes that reduce travel and downtime, so your effective hourly profit goes up. Some players take advantages like safe-spotting or multi-targeting to keep their kill speed high and their losses low. Finally, market dynamics push the profitability higher. When fewer people farm them—or when new content increases demand for hides/bones—the price spikes. Conversely, if more players flood the market, incomes dip, but because the drops are numerous and partly alchable or useful for skilling, it rarely becomes worthless. Personally, I love the rhythm of farming them: it’s satisfying, occasionally nail-biting when a rare pops, and reliably fills the bank over time.

I love sketching car cabins because they’re such a satisfying mix of engineering, ergonomics, and storytelling. My process usually starts with a quick research sprint: photos from different models, a look at service manuals, and a few cockpit shots from 'Gran Turismo' or 'Forza' for composition ideas. Then I block in basic proportions — wheelbase, seat positions, and the windshield angle — using a simple 3-point perspective grid so the dashboard and door panels sit correctly in space. Next I iterate with orthographic views: plan (roof off), front elevation, and a side section. Those help me lock in reach distances and visibility lines for a driver. I sketch the steering wheel, pedals, and instrument cluster first, because they anchor everything ergonomically. I also love making a quick foamcore mockup or using a cheap 3D app to check real-world reach; you’d be surprised how often a perfectly nice drawing feels cramped in a physical mockup. For finishes, I think in layers: hard surfaces, soft trims, seams and stitches, then reflections and glare. Lighting sketches—camera angles, sun shafts, interior ambient—bring the materials to life. My final tip: iterate fast and don’t be precious about early sketches; the best interior layouts come from lots of small adjustments. It always ends up being more fun than I expect.

I get a little geeky thinking about how much a soundtrack and voice can reshape a movie, and 'Dragon Ball Super: Broly' is a perfect example. Watching the sub Indo means you get the original Japanese performances with Indonesian subtitles, so the intonations, breaths, and raw acting choices from the seiyuu remain fully intact. That preserves the original direction and emotional beats: subtle pauses, screams, lines delivered with a certain cultural cadence that subtitles try to convey but can’t fully reproduce. For me, that made Broly’s rage feel more primal and Goku’s banter have the rhythm the director intended. On the flip side, the Indonesian dub trades reading for listening — it’s more relaxed for group watch sessions or for viewers who prefer not to read text during explosive fight scenes. Dubs often localize jokes, idioms, and sometimes even emotional emphasis so that they land for an Indonesian audience; that can be delightful when done well, but can also shift a character’s personality a little. Technical differences matter too: dubbed lines have to match lip flaps and timing, so some dialogue gets shortened or rephrased and pacing changes subtly in intense scenes. Translation quality matters a lot. Official Indonesian subs tend to be more literal but clear, while some unofficial subs might add localized flair. Dubs may soften honorifics or omit cultural references entirely. For my personal rewatch habit I usually start with the sub Indo to feel the original vibe, then revisit the dub for that comfy, communal viewing energy — each gives me different emotional colors and I love both in their own way.

Wow — the picture quality for 'Dragon Ball Super: Broly' in sub Indo form really depends on where you get it from, but generally it looks fantastic when the source is proper. If you're watching from an official digital release or the Blu-ray, expect a clean 1080p transfer with vivid color, tight linework, and solid motion handling in action scenes. The theatrical film was animated and graded with a cinematic palette, and a high-quality rip or disc will preserve that rich contrast, deep blacks, and the intense green/yellow explosions that make the fight scenes pop. Audio on legit releases is usually 5.1 or better, which complements the visuals well. Where things vary more is with fan-distributed files: some groups encode at 1080p with x264 or x265 and keep great fidelity, while others downscale to 720p to save size, which softens details and sometimes ruins subtle gradients. Subtitle treatment matters too — softsubs (a separate .srt or embedded track) keep the picture crisp, but hardcoded subs can occasionally block important on-screen text during fast scenes. If you value color accuracy and motion clarity, aim for a high-bitrate 1080p source or the official Blu-ray; those preserve the movie's intended sheen and make the jaw-dropping moments feel cinematic, at least to me.