7 Answers
I taught myself by doing small experiments, and the most useful tip I learned was to match the material to the piece’s needs. Epoxy resin gives deep translucency and is great for thick, jewel-like chunks, but it’s heavy and needs curing time and safety precautions. For lighter, sharper blades, thermoformable plastics like PETG or acrylic sheet cut with a Dremel and sanded edges can mimic the crystalline silhouette very well. You can glue shards together with clear two-part epoxy and feather seams with sanding.
For color, alcohol inks and translucent dyes are lifesavers; layer them for depth. If you don’t have a pressure pot or vacuum chamber, pour slowly, warm the resin a bit (not hot), and torch the surface carefully to pop bubbles. Reinforce stress points with metal pins or a thin spine of foam-core covered in resin. Every piece I’ve made got better after three tries; the learning curve is part of the fun, and I still find new tricks when friends come over to help finish a blade.
If you love the jagged, icy look of moonglass from 'Skyrim', you absolutely can make convincing props at home with a little patience and the right materials.
I started with silicone molds and clear epoxy resin. Mix in translucent blue dyes, a pinch of iridescent mica powder, and tiny slivers of silver or iridescent film to catch the light. Pour slowly, use a toothpick to coax bubbles to the surface, and either use a heat gun carefully or a pressure pot to eliminate stubborn bubbles. For thin blades or shards, cast in layers over a wooden or carbon-fiber core so the prop isn’t brittle. After curing, sand progressively from 220 grit up to 2000, then buff and finish with a clear coat to get that glassy sheen.
Safety is everything: ventilate, wear nitrile gloves and a respirator rated for organic vapors, and keep flammable tools away from uncured resin. If you want glowing edges, embed micro LEDs or fiber optics during the pour. It takes time and practice, but the first time light hits the facets and it sparkles like moonlight, I get that same excited grin every build.
I like quick, practical experiments, so my fast method uses cast clear resin poured into a flat silicone mold shaped like shards. Tint the resin with a few drops of translucent blue and toss in a tiny bit of iridescent film or mica flakes. Pour in thin layers so you can embed LEDs or reinforce cores between pours. If you don’t want to use resin, glue together jagged pieces cut from acrylic sheet using clear epoxy and sand the seams smooth.
A few common pitfalls: don’t rush curing (you’ll get tacky parts), avoid overusing glitter (it flattens depth), and always sand progressively to avoid cloudy surfaces. I keep a cheap respirator and gloves in my craft box now because even small pours make me nervous without protection. The first shard I made looked so good that I immediately wanted a whole set—keeps me entertained during slow weekends.
Right after finishing my latest moonglass sword, I realized the end aesthetic depends way more on finishing than the pouring. The casting is only half the journey. I usually start from the finished image: how translucent, how sharp, and whether I want it to glow under LEDs. From that mental picture I choose materials: clear casting resin for gem-like chunks, thin cast acrylic for blades, or layered resin over a lightweight foam core for large props.
Technically, use a high-quality silicone mold for crisp edges and mix resin slowly to reduce bubbles. If you're chasing that ethereal blue, mica powders and a dab of pearl pigment give shimmer without looking like glitter. To make shards realistically refract light, sand and polish the faces; wet sanding through fine grits then a polishing compound brings out depth. I always add internal micro-scratches with a tiny needle to scatter light subtly.
Durability matters: embed a metal pin at stress points, and avoid razor-thin tips unless you want breakage. The first build felt like trial and error, but refining technique turned it into a hobby I look forward to each weekend—totally worth the effort.
The short version: yes, you absolutely can make moonglass-style cosplay props at home — and it can be ridiculously fun. I went down this rabbit hole for a con last year and learned a bunch of practical tricks the hard way. If you want something lightweight and translucent, clear resin casting is the classic route: make a silicone mold (or buy one), mix clear epoxy or polyester resin, add a tiny touch of blue or purple alcohol ink or mica powder for that moonlit hue, then pour. For strength and to avoid a fragile prop, consider embedding a thin armature—like a dowel or wire—inside while it cures so it won’t snap during transport.
Resin needs good ventilation and PPE (nitrile gloves, respirator for solvent fumes), and patience—multiple thin pours reduce bubbles and heat. I also learned to use a plastic wrap tent and a cheap heat gun to pop surface bubbles right after pouring. Sanding and polishing take the piece from cloudy to gem-like: start with 200 grit and move up through 600, 1200, then buff with a polishing compound. If you want internal glow, embedding LED strips or a fiber optic bundle during casting gives an ethereal core glow. For cheaper or same-day options, layered hot glue on a silicone mat, or shaped clear acrylic pieces glued and flame-polished, work great for smaller shards or inlays.
If you’re inspired by props in 'The Elder Scrolls' or similar fantasy games, study reference angles and negative space — moonglass often looks sharp but elegant. I like to finish edges with a little translucent nail polish or clear epoxy to catch highlights. Making moonglass at home turned into an excuse to learn resin chemistry and polishing, and walking around the con with a glowing dagger felt weirdly triumphant — like I’d smuggled moonlight into reality.
If you want a quick plan: pick your scale and weight limits first, then choose between resin casting, acrylic shaping, or hot-glue/UV resin for fast builds. For realistic moonlit color, layer tiny amounts of blue, violet, and pearlescent pigment instead of a single heavy tint — that way light passes through and creates depth. Always factor in how you’ll attach it to the rest of the prop: glue alone often isn’t enough for impact points, so use pins or embedded rods.
Safety note: work somewhere ventilated, use gloves and eye protection, and keep a little isopropyl on hand to clean drips before they cure. Making my first moonglass piece felt like cheating — it looked way better than I expected — and I still smile when the light hits it right.
I got obsessed with making a moonglass pendant once and found a few quick, reliable methods that don't require a full resin setup. For small pieces, UV resin is a lifesaver: you can cure it with a handheld UV light or sunlight, layer in mica powders or iridescent cellophane for internal shimmer, and build it up until you like the thickness. It’s less toxic-smelling than some epoxies, but still wear gloves and avoid skin contact. Another approachable route is using clear acrylic blanks — you can cut and sand them into shape, then flame-polish the edges carefully or use a polishing buff to get transparency.
If you’re thinking bigger and want a sharper, crystalline look, vacuum-forming clear PETG over a carved foam master produces great results for multiple copies. It’s faster for batches and avoids curing times, though you’ll need a small vacuum table or a creative kitchen hack. For finishes, a light wash of pearl paint on the back or small painted veins in the seams gives depth. As for transport and mounting, I attach moonglass shards to EVA foam hilts using cyanoacrylate gel and an internal pin for shear strength. It’s satisfying to hold something that refracts the con lights just right — I still find myself tilting it in the light when I’m waiting in line.