Is 'Mobile Suit Gundam: The White Devil Among Angels' A Sequel Or Spin-Off?

On slow mornings when my hair decides to puff up like it has plans of its own, I really lean into lightweight, texture-first products. For a low taper fade with fluffy hair you want stuff that gives separation and hold without flattening the volume — think sea salt spray as a pre-styler, a light matte clay or cream for shaping, and a fine texturizing powder at the roots when you need an extra lift. I usually spritz a salt spray into towel-damp hair, scrunch with my fingers, then blow-dry on low with a round brush or my hand to encourage the fluff rather than smoothing it down. If I'm going out and want that lived-in look, I follow with a pea-sized amount of water-based matte clay worked between my palms, then rake through the top and crown. For stubborn spots I'll use a little fiber or paste for extra grip, but sparingly — too much product kills the airiness. A light flexible hairspray keeps everything in place without turning the style into armor. Maintenance-wise, a sulfate-free shampoo every other day and a dry shampoo on day two keeps the shape without weighing the hair down, and a leave-in conditioner used only on the ends prevents frizz. This combo keeps the fade crisp and the fluffy top lively, which I love because it looks styled but still effortless, like I actually slept well even if I didn't.

Let me walk you through my favorite setup for drawing Deku if you want something simple but effective. I start with a couple of pencils: an HB or B for construction lines and a 2B or 4B for darker linework and quick shading. A small, soft kneaded eraser and a clean vinyl eraser are lifesavers — kneaded for gentle highlights and vinyl for stubborn marks. For paper, a smooth sketchbook or a sheet of Bristol (smooth surface) keeps lines crisp and works well if you decide to ink. For inking I like thin-felt pens (0.1–0.5) and a brush pen for hair strands and dynamic line weight. If you want color later, cheap alcohol markers or a handful of colored pencils (greens, skin tones, and a few neutrals) cover Deku’s palette. For easy tutorials, pick ones that break Deku down into simple shapes: circle for the skull, cross-line for facial direction, rectangles for the torso. Tracing paper or a window tracing method is perfect for early practice, and a lightbox is a nice upgrade. Practice expression sheets, three-quarter head rotations, and quick gesture poses to capture his energy from 'My Hero Academia'. I find this combo keeps the process fun and not intimidating, and I usually end up smiling at the results.

Debra Silverman has made quite an impact in the world of literature, especially with her insightful works that resonate deeply with readers. One title that stands out is 'The Missing Piece.' This book is cherished for its unique blend of philosophy and storytelling. It dives into human emotions and the oftentimes tricky nature of relationships, challenging readers to confront their inner thoughts and feelings. The vivid imagery she employs really pulls you in and makes the struggles portrayed almost palpable. Another one that has captured the hearts of fans is 'The Gift of Change.' In this book, Silverman balances the notion of transformation with themes of resilience and hope. Her engaging prose guides readers through the complexities of life changes, making it relatable for anyone navigating their own paths. Each chapter feels like a friendly conversation, encouraging introspection and growth. Many fans rave about the way her characters feel real, almost like people we know in our everyday lives. If you're looking for something that combines emotional depth with an engaging narrative, these titles are definitely worth checking out! Her ability to speak to the reader almost feels like she’s giving advice from a wise, nurturing friend. No wonder they’re so beloved!

CliffNotes books have often been a topic of hot debate among students. For many, they're absolute lifesavers, especially when the pressure of looming exams feels overwhelming. Picture this: a student, crunched for time, frantically flipping through pages for that perfect summary to ease their study session. These guides distill dense literary works into bite-sized chunks, making it a lot easier to grasp complex themes and character arcs. It's like having a friend who read all the heavy texts and decided to spill the secrets. The commentary often provides insights that some might miss in a first read, which can be a game changer, especially in classes that demand a high level of analysis. However, there are also those who argue that relying too heavily on these summaries can lead to a superficial understanding. To them, 'CliffNotes' feels like a shortcut that might rob students of genuinely engaging with the literature. They emphasize how diving deep into the actual text, even if it requires extra time and effort, can offer a richer experience and a deeper appreciation for the author’s intentions. Yet, what can't be denied is the practicality that these guides bring. When it comes to preparing for tests, having a structured overview can reinforce knowledge effectively and, for some, it’s the balance between using the guide and the original text that proves most beneficial. Overall, while opinions vary, it’s clear that for many students, 'CliffNotes' remain an essential tool in their academic toolkit, either as a primary resource or a complementary one. I'm personally all for using them, but I also love diving into the actual books when there’s time to enjoy their depth!

My go-to brush collection for watercolor cupcakes reads like a little team of quirky friends: a big round for the base wash, a medium round for shaping the frosting, a very small round or 000 for sprinkles and fine lines, and a rigger/liner for those delicate swirl tails. I usually reach for a Kolinsky-style round (sizes 6–10 for the dome of the frosting, 2–4 for midtones, and 0–000 for detailing) because the tip holds a sharp point while the belly stores enough water for smooth, consistent strokes. When I'm doing wet-on-wet buttercream blends I love using a mop or a large round (size 12–14) to lay down soft gradients without hard edges. For texture — like the crackle on a sugar cookie base or the crumbly edges of a cupcake — a dry brush or a stiff synthetic filbert gives that pleasing roughness. A rigger or round liner is my secret weapon for long chocolate drips and tiny sprinkle strings; its long hairs keep a steady, even line. Toss in a small fan for light powdered sugar effects and a spotter for tiny dots and you're set. Brush care matters: rinse in clean water, reshape tips, never leave brushes standing in water, and use a gentle soap now and then. I pair these brushes with 300gsm cold-pressed paper and a limited watercolor palette so the cupcake colors stay deliciously vibrant. Painting cupcakes feels like baking without an oven — buttery, forgiving, and oddly calming.

especially for balancing a round face. For me the key is adding height and angles: look for hats with a taller crown and a medium-to-wide brim that’s slightly angled or asymmetric. A fedora-style with a defined pinch at the crown or a teardrop/top-dented crown creates a vertical line that lengthens the face. I also love rancher-style hats with a crisp brim because the straighter brim edge gives a nice contrast to softer facial curves. Avoid super round crowns, tiny brims, or extremely floppy bucket-like styles that echo the shape of your face. Materials matter too — firmer felts keep their shape and provide that structure you want, while floppy straw or overly soft knit can swallow features. Color-wise, a darker brim or a hat with a subtle band draws the eye upward and adds definition. Styling tips I live by: tilt the hat slightly back or to the side to expose some forehead, pair it with longer hair or vertical earrings to elongate the silhouette, and try a side part to break the roundness. When I wear my structured Gigi Pip hat this way, my face feels framed instead of boxed in, and I walk out feeling a little bolder.

Whenever I pick up a pencil to design Miles' suit I like to start with a clear silhouette — that single shape has to read from a distance and scream 'Spider' without losing Miles' street-smart vibe. I usually sketch a few quick silhouettes first: low, crouched, high-leap, and a relaxed standing pose. Each silhouette tells me how the suit will fold and stretch. From there I lock proportion choices: slightly lankier limbs than Peter's classic proportions, a smaller torso, and a mask with larger expressive eyes. Those eye shapes are everything for emotion — try different crescent sizes until the face feels young and agile. Once the pose and silhouette are nailed, I dive into surface design. The classic Miles color scheme is bold: mostly black with red webbing and a red spider emblem. Play with where the red lives — full chest emblem, neck-to-shoulder streaks, or a fragmented graffiti-like design. I love asymmetry: one arm with tighter webbing, the other with a smoother black sleeve, or a red glove only on one hand. For webbing, draw lines that radiate from the center of the emblem and have them curve with the torso; make the lines thicker toward the center to sell depth. The mask's eye lenses can be simple white shapes or stylized with a faint black rim — think about how those eyes will read in silhouette and close-up. Texture is crucial: decide whether the suit is matte athletic fabric, glossy tactical rubber, or a layered hoodie-over-suit look. I often add a visible seam pattern, subtle fabric weave, or paint-splatter grit to keep the street-art feel inspired by 'Spider-Man: Into the Spider-Verse'. When it comes to rendering, lighting makes the design pop. Use a strong rim light to separate Miles from dark backgrounds, and a soft colored fill (cool blue or cyan) to hint at his venom powers. For highlights, choose a slightly desaturated red for midtones and a bright saturated red for speculars; black stays deep but allow subtle reflections to suggest the material. Small details sell realism: scuffed sneakers, a folded hood, taped fingers, or a small graffiti sticker on the belt. Don’t forget narrative variants — a stealth black-on-black suit, a punk-styled jacket variation, or a high-tech armored take for different stories. Above all, iterate: thumbnails, light-and-shadow studies, and quick color passes will help you find the best combination. I get a real kick out of experimenting with one tiny tweak — a different spider emblem or swapped sleeve color — and suddenly Miles feels fresh again.

My go-to pencils for soft, natural eye shading are really all about a small, complementary range rather than a single ‘magic’ stick. I usually start a drawing with a harder pencil—something like 2H or H—very lightly to lay out the eye shape, eyelid folds, and pupil placement. That keeps my construction crisp without smudging. After that I switch to HB or 2B for building the midtones: these are perfect for the subtle gradations in the whites of the eye, the gradual shadow under the brow, and the soft plane changes on the eyelids. For the shadowed areas where you want a lush, velvety feel—a shadowed iris rim, deep crease, or lashes’ roots—I reach for 4B and 6B. Those softer leads give rich, blendable darks that aren’t crunchy, so you can get a soft transition rather than a hard line. Paper and tools matter as much as pencil grade. A smooth hot-press or Bristol board lets you achieve those delicate gradients without the tooth grabbing too much graphite; slightly toothier papers work too if you want more texture. Blending tools—tortillons, a soft brush, or even a bit of tissue—help turn the 2B–4B layers into silky skin tones, but I try to avoid over-blending so the drawing retains life. A kneaded eraser is indispensable: pull out tiny highlights on the iris and the moist glint at the tear duct, and lift delicate edges near lashes. For razor-sharp details like individual lashes or the darkest pupil edge, I’ll pull out a 0.3mm mechanical pencil or a very hard 4H for tiny, crisp catchlights after shading. If you want brand suggestions, I gravitate toward Staedtler Mars Lumograph and Faber-Castell 9000 because their grades are consistent and predictable—very helpful when layering. For bolder, creamier blacks, Caran d’Ache Grafwood or softer Derwent pencils work great. Experiment: try a simple set of H, HB, 2B, 4B, 6B and practice building values from light to dark in thin layers, saving the softest pencils for the final mood and shadow accents. Eyes are all about contrast and subtle edges; the right pencil mix plus patient layering will make them read as soft, wet, and alive. I always feel a little thrill when a rough sketch suddenly looks like a living gaze.