Does Sketch Have Tourettes

One small obsession of mine when drawing Deidara is getting those mouths and hands to feel functional, not just decorative. I start with gesture: quick, loose lines that capture the flow of the fingers and the tilt of the jaw. For the face-mouth I think about the mask of expression — a very narrow upper lip, a slightly fuller lower lip when he smirks, and the way the chin tucks back with his head tilt. For reference I always flip through pages of 'Naruto' and freeze frames where his expression is dynamic — that little asymmetry makes it read as alive. When I move to the hands, I build them like architecture: palm as a foreshortened box, fingers as cylinders, knuckles as a simple ridge. The mouths on Deidara’s palms sit centered but follow the surface planes of the palm — so if the hand is turned three-quarter, the lip curvature and teeth perspective should bend with it. I sketch the mouth inside the palm with lighter shapes first: an oval for the opening, a guideline for the teeth rows, and subtle creases for the skin around the lips. Remember to show the tension where fingers press into clay: little wrinkles and flattened pads sell the grip. Shading and detail come last. Use darker values between teeth, a thin highlight along the lip to suggest moisture, and soft shadow under the lower lip to push depth. For hands, add cast shadows between fingers and slight fingernail highlights. I also find sculpting a quick ball of clay myself helps me feel how fingers indent and how a mouth in the palm would stretch — it’s silly but effective. That tactile practice always improves my panels and makes Deidara look like he’s actually crafting an explosion, which I love.

Creating a sketch of Tanjiro from 'Demon Slayer' is such a rewarding endeavor! To start, having high-quality sketching pencils is crucial. Honestly, I love using a range of hardness; from 2B for softer lines to H for those delicate details. You might also want some colored pencils or markers for adding depth to the final artwork. Once, I used Copics for a similar character, and trust me, the vibrancy really made it pop! Don’t forget about a good eraser! Not just any eraser will do, though; a kneaded eraser is perfect for lifting off graphite without damaging the paper. Speaking of paper, choosing the right type is essential. A heavier drawing pad, like 200gsm, provides a sturdy surface to work on and allows for layering, which is fantastic when you’re trying to capture Tanjiro's intricate clothing and expressive facial features. And if you prefer digital art, a tablet and appropriate software, like Procreate, can really enhance your sketching experience. What a journey it is to breathe life into his character through art! Finally, let’s talk about references! Having various images or even screenshots from the anime can give you a sense of Tanjiro’s styling and expressions, which is invaluable when you’re trying to capture his spirit. Art is not just about materials; it's also about inspiration and understanding the character, which is the most rewarding part for me!

There’s a satisfying simplicity to drawing a dragon that curls into a yin-yang — it feels like composing music with two notes. I usually start by deciding the final shape: a perfect circle split into two swirling halves. Lightly sketch a circle with a compass or by tracing something round, then draw an S-shaped curve inside it to split the circle into the classic yin-yang halves. Treat that S like the backbone of two dragons mirroring each other: one dragon follows the upper curve, the other the lower. Keep the initial lines quick and loose; I often do this on the back of a grocery list while waiting for coffee, so nothing fancy is needed at first. Next, block in basic dragon silhouettes around that S-curve. For a simple stylized dragon, make each head a teardrop with a little snout and a single curved horn or ear. The bodies should be ribbon-like, thickening at the torso and tapering into elegant tails that curl to complete the circle. Add a rounded belly for balance where the yin-yang dots will sit. For scales, I like to indicate texture with a few rows near the spine instead of penciling every scale — hints read as detail at a glance. When inking, choose one dragon to fill with solid black and leave the other mostly white with black outline; place a small white circle on the black dragon and a small black circle on the white dragon to keep the symbol’s meaning intact. Finally, think about contrast and personality. You can make one dragon sleeker and smooth, the other spikier and armored to show duality. Play with line weight: thicker lines for the darker dragon’s silhouette, finer lines for interior details on the lighter one. If you like washes, dilute black ink for soft shadows underneath where bodies overlap. For a quick finish, erase pencil, touch up ink, and use a white gel pen to restore highlights. I always sign mine tiny near a tail curl — it feels like adding a final note. Try a few thumbnails first; the charm is in the variations, and sometimes the clumsiest sketch becomes the most characterful dragon.

Sketching a penguin can be delightfully quick or surprisingly slow depending on how deep I want to go. For a playful, cartoony penguin that captures personality, I often spend 5–15 minutes: a loose oval for the body, a smaller oval for the head, two tiny flippers, feet and a beak — quick linework, minimal detail, and a confident eraser. Those quick sketches are great warm-ups or for sending a cheerful doodle to a friend. If I’m aiming for something more polished — cleaner lines, basic shading, a hint of texture on the belly or feathers — I’ll budget 30–60 minutes. That time lets me play with proportions, add simple shading with cross-hatching or soft graphite, and adjust poses so the penguin reads as lively instead of stiff. Full studies with layered shading, background elements, or colored markers can easily stretch into a couple of hours. Materials and approach change timing a lot: digital tools speed up corrections, while ink or marker forces more deliberate strokes. I personally enjoy doing a quick sketch first and then revisiting the piece later; that way even a rushed 10-minute doodle can become a charming little portrait after a second pass, which always lifts my mood.

Grabbing a pencil and letting the page look back at me is my favorite way to start — I like to treat cartooning as playful problem-solving. First, pick a simple idea: a grumpy cat, a spaceman, or a walking slice of toast. Keep the mood in mind before you make any marks. Step 1: Block in the big shapes. Use circles, ovals, rectangles — nothing precise. I sketch a head circle, a body oval, stick limbs if needed. Step 2: Find the line of action. A loose curved line will give your character life; tilt the body to show mood. Step 3: Add guiding shapes for features: a smaller oval for the snout, a rectangle for a hat, two dots for eyes. Step 4: Simplify and exaggerate: make eyes bigger for cuteness or a jaw bigger for grumpy vibes. Step 5: Clean up with a darker line, erase construction marks, and add one or two details — stripes, a pocket, or a tiny prop. Practice by copying simple styles from stuff you love like 'Peanuts' or 'Adventure Time' to learn silhouette and proportion. I usually spend ten minutes per sketch and keep a stack of failures; they teach me more than the successes. It always feels great when a silly doodle starts to act like a real character.

I've fallen in love with the quiet ritual of sketching fish, and over the years I've learned that the right paper and a small collection of tools make the details sing. For the drawing itself I usually start on a smooth, hot-pressed Bristol board because it lets me lay down crisp graphite lines and fine cross-hatching without the tooth of the paper eating my pencil. I keep a range of graphite pencils—from H for light construction lines to 2B and 4B for deeper shadows—so scales and subtle tonal shifts get the attention they deserve. For texture and final accents I reach for a few specialty items: a kneaded eraser for gentle lifting, a white gel pen or titanium white gouache for sharp highlights on wet-looking eyes and reflective scales, and a couple of blending stumps to get soft gradients without muddying the edges. If I'm moving into ink, a set of archival fine liners (005 to 03) and a rigger brush with waterproof ink let me render fins and delicate rays with confidence. When color is needed I prefer water-soluble colored pencils over markers for fish skin because I can layer and lift; sometimes a light watercolor wash on cold-pressed paper gives the subtle translucence of flesh. Finish everything with a light spray fixative if it's graphite-heavy. All of this combined helps me capture that slippery, shimmering life in each sketch, and it still makes me smile every time I catch the way a highlight dances on a painted scale.

I still get a grin thinking about how a simple fish can carry so much style, but let me paint a clearer picture: Katsushika Hokusai is usually top of the list because his 'Hokusai Manga' sketchbooks are full of quick, lively studies of fish and water-life — they read like a naturalist's doodles but with that unmistakable ukiyo-e energy. Henri Matisse gave fish a whole mood in pieces like 'Goldfish', where the bright, tranquil koi anchor a composition and feel like a study in color and calm rather than a rough sketch. Pablo Picasso loved to strip forms down to one or two lines, and his fish drawings or lithographs called 'Poissons' show how a tiny loop of a line can declare an entire creature. Paul Klee's 'Fish Magic' mixes dream imagery and simple fish shapes into something that feels both childish and strangely profound. M.C. Escher takes a different route: his 'Sky and Water I' plays fish against bird forms in a way that looks like a sketch turned into a mathematical puzzle. Each artist treats the fish differently — study, color experiment, playful line, dream symbol, or tessellating motif — and that's what makes chasing these sketches so much fun to me.

Bright panels and scribbled fish have always felt like a secret code to me. I use them in my own thumbnails because a little fish shape instantly shows direction and attitude: the head points where a character is looking or moving, the curve suggests body twist, and the tail can hint at momentum. In storyboarding, clarity rules. Directors and editors need to scan pages fast and know at a glance who’s doing what, where the eye should travel, and how the camera will respond. The fish is simple, readable, and keeps the board from getting bogged down in anatomical detail when pacing and composition are the priorities. Beyond utility, I like that the fish encourages a gesture-first mindset. It’s like doing a quick warmup sketch—capture intention, rhythm, and weight before refining expressions or costume. It’s saved me hours during crunches and made collaborations smoother; someone else can pick up the board and immediately understand the motion without deciphering messy notes. I still smile when a tiny fish nails a complicated move in a panel—such a small thing, but it often solves a big staging problem.