What Reference Poses Improve Naruto Drawing Images For Artists?

I get asked this all the time, especially by friends who want to put a cute female cartoon on merch or use it in a poster for their small shop. The short reality: a cartoon female character photo is not automatically free for commercial use just because it looks like a simple drawing or a PNG on the internet. Characters—whether stylized or photoreal—are protected by copyright from the moment they are created, and many are also subject to trademark or brand restrictions if they're part of an established franchise like 'Sailor Moon' or a company-owned mascot. That protection covers the artwork and often the character design itself. If you want to use one commercially, check the license closely. Look for explicit permissions (Creative Commons types, a commercial-use stock license, or a written release from the artist). Buying a license or commissioning an original piece from an artist is the cleanest route. If something is labeled CC0 or public domain, that’s safer, but double-check provenance. For fan art or derivative work, you still need permission for commercial uses. I usually keep a screenshot of the license and the payment record—little things like that save headaches later, which I always appreciate.

If you want a straightforward path to drawing Deku, I’ve got a go-to routine I use that turns messy scribbles into something recognizable without overcomplicating things. I start with basic shapes — an oval for the head, a light cross for eye placement, and a rectangle for the torso. From there I block in the hair mass; Deku’s hair is spiky but rounded at the tips, so I sketch loose zigzags and then refine them into clumps. Next I break his face into thirds to place the big, expressive eyes typical of 'My Hero Academia', adding the signature forehead scar and freckles. For the body I think in cylinders: neck, shoulders, arms, then add his school uniform or hero costume as simplified shapes before detailing. Shading is minimal at first: flat shadows under the chin and around the hairline. For guided material I like a mix: a short YouTube step-by-step for pacing, a Pinterest step-layer image for reference, and a DeviantArt or Tumblr breakdown for pose ideas. If you want specific practice drills, I do 10-minute face studies, 5-minute hair clump sketches, and then a single full-body pose once I feel comfortable. That combo — structure, focused drills, and reference layering — is what finally turned my scribbly Deku into something I’d actually post. It’s honestly so satisfying when the eyes start to feel alive.

Picking up a pencil and trying to copy Deku's poses is honestly one of the most fun ways kids can learn how bodies move. I started by breaking his silhouette into simple shapes — a circle for the head, ovals for the torso and hips, and thin lines for the limbs — and that alone made a huge difference. For small hands, focusing on the gesture first (the big action line) helps capture the energy before worrying about costume details from 'My Hero Academia'. After the gesture, I like to add joint marks at the shoulders, elbows, hips, and knees so kids can see where bending happens. Encouraging them to exaggerate a little — stretch a pose or tilt a torso — makes copying easier and gives a cartoony, confident look. Using light lines, erasing, and redrawing is part of the process, and tracing is okay as a stepping stone if it's paired with attempts to redraw freehand. Give them short timed exercises: 30 seconds for quick gestures, 2 minutes to clean up, and one longer 10-minute pose to refine. Pairing this with fun references like action figures or freeze-framing a 'My Hero Academia' scene makes practice feel like play. I still get a rush when a sketch finally looks alive, and kids will too.

Let me walk you through my favorite setup for drawing Deku if you want something simple but effective. I start with a couple of pencils: an HB or B for construction lines and a 2B or 4B for darker linework and quick shading. A small, soft kneaded eraser and a clean vinyl eraser are lifesavers — kneaded for gentle highlights and vinyl for stubborn marks. For paper, a smooth sketchbook or a sheet of Bristol (smooth surface) keeps lines crisp and works well if you decide to ink. For inking I like thin-felt pens (0.1–0.5) and a brush pen for hair strands and dynamic line weight. If you want color later, cheap alcohol markers or a handful of colored pencils (greens, skin tones, and a few neutrals) cover Deku’s palette. For easy tutorials, pick ones that break Deku down into simple shapes: circle for the skull, cross-line for facial direction, rectangles for the torso. Tracing paper or a window tracing method is perfect for early practice, and a lightbox is a nice upgrade. Practice expression sheets, three-quarter head rotations, and quick gesture poses to capture his energy from 'My Hero Academia'. I find this combo keeps the process fun and not intimidating, and I usually end up smiling at the results.

I get a real kick out of digging up references, and for 'Deku' there's a goldmine if you know where to look. Start with anime frames: queue up scenes from 'My Hero Academia' on YouTube, slow them to 0.25x and use the comma and period keys to step frame-by-frame. I make a small folder of screenshots — run, punch, breath, expression — and they become my go-to animation references. Besides screenshots, I lean on pose apps like Easy Poser or DesignDoll to recreate tricky foreshortening; you can tweak limb lengths until the silhouette reads like the anime. For facial and costume details, Pixiv and Instagram hashtags like #dekudrawing or #izukumidoriya are full of stylistic studies and expression sheets. I also use GIF extractors (ezgif.com) to pull a handful of keyframes from fight sequences; then I trace loosely to learn motion flow before drawing freehand. Pro tip: import the keyframes into Krita or Procreate, turn down the opacity and onion-skin the next frame — your in-betweens will feel way more natural. This workflow keeps things simple yet accurate, and I always end up smiling at how much more confident my sketches look.

I find that practice is the single most useful thing you can do to get better at drawing Deku in simple comic panels. When I break it down, what really changed my work was doing tiny, focused drills: quick gesture sketches for 60 seconds, three-frame expressions, and practicing the same punch pose from different angles. Those little repetitions build muscle memory so you stop overthinking every line and let the character feel alive. I also mixed study with play: I’d pull frames from the 'My Hero Academia' manga and anime to see how the artist handles speed lines, head tilts, and panel layout, then I’d redraw them as simplified thumbnails. Thumbnailing helped me decide what to show and what to cut away. Over weeks you’ll notice your storytelling improves — pacing, camera choices, and facial clarity. It’s satisfying to watch a page go from messy sketches to readable, punchy panels, and I still get a kick out of tiny wins like cleaner expressions or better motion.

I get excited whenever someone asks this — yes, you absolutely can make comics without traditional drawing chops, and I’d happily toss a few of my favorite shortcuts and philosophies your way. Start by thinking like a storyteller first: scripts, thumbnails and pacing matter far more to readers initially than pencil-perfect anatomy. I sketch stick-figure thumbnails to lock down beats, then build from there. Use collage, photo-references, 3D assets, panel templates, or programs like Clip Studio, Procreate, or even simpler tools to lay out scenes. Lettering and rhythm can sell mood even if your linework is rough. Collaboration is golden — pair with an artist, colorist, or letterer if you prefer writing or plotting. I also lean on modular practices: create character turnaround sheets with simple shapes, reuse backgrounds, and develop a limited palette. Study comics I love — like 'Scott Pilgrim' for rhythm or 'Saga' for visual economy — and copy the storytelling choices, not the exact art style. Above all, ship small: one strong one-page strip or short zine teaches more than waiting to “be good enough.” It’s doable, rewarding, and a creative joy if you treat craft and story equally. I’m kind of thrilled every time someone finishes that first page.

My go-to brush collection for watercolor cupcakes reads like a little team of quirky friends: a big round for the base wash, a medium round for shaping the frosting, a very small round or 000 for sprinkles and fine lines, and a rigger/liner for those delicate swirl tails. I usually reach for a Kolinsky-style round (sizes 6–10 for the dome of the frosting, 2–4 for midtones, and 0–000 for detailing) because the tip holds a sharp point while the belly stores enough water for smooth, consistent strokes. When I'm doing wet-on-wet buttercream blends I love using a mop or a large round (size 12–14) to lay down soft gradients without hard edges. For texture — like the crackle on a sugar cookie base or the crumbly edges of a cupcake — a dry brush or a stiff synthetic filbert gives that pleasing roughness. A rigger or round liner is my secret weapon for long chocolate drips and tiny sprinkle strings; its long hairs keep a steady, even line. Toss in a small fan for light powdered sugar effects and a spotter for tiny dots and you're set. Brush care matters: rinse in clean water, reshape tips, never leave brushes standing in water, and use a gentle soap now and then. I pair these brushes with 300gsm cold-pressed paper and a limited watercolor palette so the cupcake colors stay deliciously vibrant. Painting cupcakes feels like baking without an oven — buttery, forgiving, and oddly calming.