Are Gametime Tickets Resale?

I get asked this a lot by folks who inherit a shelf of collectibles or find a cool piece at a flea market. Short version: yes, a preowned L figure from 'Death Note' can hold resale value, but it depends on a handful of concrete things. First, condition is king — paint chips, loose joints, or missing hands/stand will shave prices hard. Having the original box, inner plastic, and paperwork can double or triple what a casual buyer will pay compared to bare figure-only listings. Second, rarity matters. Limited runs, event exclusives, or certain manufacturers (think high-end lines or small runs) keep value higher. Common mass-market prize figures usually depreciate unless they become scarce years later. Finally, timing and market channels matter: auctions on eBay, Mandarake, or dedicated collector forums often fetch better prices than quick flips on general marketplaces. I’d say if you’re realistic and patient, you can recoup most of what you paid — and sometimes even profit — especially with a character like L from 'Death Note' who stays relevant. I still get a little thrill when a listing finally sells for what I hoped it would.

Honestly, when I eyeball used listings and lurk in guitar groups, the S2 Mira tends to sit in a slightly higher resale tier than most PRS SE models. The main reason is perception and provenance: S2s are marketed and built to bridge the gap between American-made Core instruments and the more affordable SE line, so people expect better hardware, different woods/finishes, and a quality-control story that justifies paying more secondhand. In practical terms that means an S2 Mira often commands noticeably more money than an SE Mira or comparable SE model, especially if it’s a desirable finish or a limited run. That said, resale isn’t just a sticker—condition, rarity, and timing matter way more than the model badge alone. A perfectly kept SE with original case, recent setup, and sought-after color can beat a beat-up S2 in final sale price. Conversely, a well-cared-for S2 with original case and low fret wear often holds its value better because buyers see it as closer to the Core lineage; I've seen folks pay a premium for a US-made serial and the 'feel' of higher-end fretwork. Mods are a big caveat: aftermarket pickups, non-original tuners, or routed cavities will usually tank resale for collectors, though players looking for tone might not care. If you’re buying to flip or wanting the best resale protection, my practical checklist is useful: keep the case and paperwork, take detailed photos, get a receipt for any recent setup, and be transparent about mods. List on multiple platforms (local marketplace, Reverb, eBay) and price it with a small room for negotiation. For buyers, remember that SEs are fantastic value for playing and modding — you can often get the same sonic goals for less money and still keep resale decent. Personally, I tend to favor S2 when I want resale security and a closer-to-Core feel, but for everyday playing and experimentation I’ll happily pick up an SE and make it my project guitar.

It depends a lot on what you mean by ‘resale value,’ and honestly I love that complexity — it’s what makes jewelry hunting fun. Onyx itself (especially the common smooth black variety) isn’t a high-value gemstone the way sapphires or emeralds are, so if you buy a plain black onyx men’s ring at a mid-range price, don’t expect dramatic appreciation. What preserves or improves value is the combination: a striking or rare piece of onyx (banded or with unusual translucence), set in quality metal, made by a respected maker, or with historical provenance. Treatments and imitations muddy the waters too — glass, dyed agate, or mass-produced composites are plentiful and cheap, which pulls down general perception unless your piece is clearly high-end. Practical factors matter more than you’d guess. The metal setting (solid gold vs gold-plated), hallmarks, and any accompanying paperwork or original box hugely influence resale. Vintage or designer pieces often outperform generic mass-market items because collectors chase brand and story. Regional taste matters as well: black onyx can be trendy in certain subcultures or geographic markets, while plain black stones might be out of fashion elsewhere. Maintenance affects resale too — scratches, chips, or a re-polished look can lower desirability. If you want to maximize what you can get later, keep receipts, get an appraisal or certificate if it’s a pricier piece, photograph it carefully, and avoid harsh cleaning that removes patina or original finishes. I’ve bought, polished, and sold a few onyx pieces over the years, and the ones that held value were never just the stone — they were the full package. A mid-century signet with a carved banded onyx and intact maker’s mark attracted more interest than a brand-new, generic black onyx fashion ring. When selling, I’ve had better luck with specialized vintage shops and auction listings that tell the story, rather than generic buyback counters. Online marketplaces are great for reach but expect fees and haggling. So, if you’re treating men’s onyx jewelry as an investment: be picky, document everything, favor unique or well-made pieces, and remember that liquidity is lower than for diamonds. If you enjoy the style, buy for love first and potential resale second — it keeps the pressure off and usually leads to smarter choices.

I'm the kind of person who loves collecting books in every form, so this topic hits a nerve: Kindle's DRM essentially turns what you buy into a license tied to Amazon, not a free-standing file you can trade like a paperback. Practically, that means most Kindle purchases are locked to your Amazon account and the devices/apps registered to it. Amazon and publishers control whether a title can be loaned, gifted, or downloaded in a transferable format. There is a small 'loan this title' feature for some books (usually enabled by the publisher) that lets you lend a title for about 14 days, and gifting at purchase is possible, but full resale — dragging a file to a secondhand market and transferring ownership — isn't supported. If you try to remove DRM with tools, you're bumping into legal barriers in many places: laws like the DMCA in the U.S. make circumvention risky. Legally, the old idea of first sale (you can resell your used paperback) doesn't map neatly to digital content. Some court cases, like the EU's 'UsedSoft' decision about software, hint that resale of downloaded licenses can be argued in certain jurisdictions, but that hasn't opened a clear pathway for ebooks everywhere. Amazon's terms typically treat purchases as licensed, not owned, and they can and do revoke access in rare circumstances (account issues, refunds, publisher takedowns). Libraries and services integrate with Amazon in constrained ways, so borrowing is possible but controlled. If resale matters to you, I try to buy DRM-free from indie stores or favor physical copies. I also keep receipts, check publisher policies before buying, and treat Kindle as an amazing convenience rather than a replacement for a tradable collection — because the rules are different and often tilted toward the seller rather than the buyer.

Okay, here’s the long take from my bookish brain: DRM protections on Kindle ebooks are legal in the sense that companies can and do put them in place, and courts generally recognize those protections and the licensing models that come with them. When you buy a Kindle book you’re usually buying a license to read a copy under certain conditions, not a physical object you own outright. That license often forbids transferring the file or circumventing the DRM, so trying to strip protections and resell a file can land you in trouble. In the U.S., anti-circumvention rules (like the DMCA’s 1201 provisions) make circumventing DRM illegal even if you own the content; that’s a big practical barrier. Across the pond things can be fuzzier. European courts have sometimes allowed resale of downloaded software licenses, which opened a door for arguments about digital goods more broadly, but that doesn’t automatically mean Kindle-style ebooks are freely resellable. Platform terms, publisher agreements, and technical measures still block straightforward resale. There have also been lawsuits and failed services that tried to create marketplaces for used digital music or ebooks; the law hasn’t generally embraced a broad used-digital-marketplace idea. If you’re thinking about reselling, my pragmatic tip is: read the terms, look for gifting or family sharing features Amazon provides, and consider buying DRM-free books from sellers that explicitly allow transfers or backups. If you love the idea of a secondhand digital book market, keep an eye on legal changes and projects experimenting with lending frameworks — things might shift, but for now the safest play is to assume resale is restricted and avoid breaking DRM to do it.

Booking tickets for the Natural History Museum is super straightforward! I recently did it for a weekend trip, and the online system was a breeze. Just head to their official website, click on the 'Tickets' or 'Visit' section, and pick your date and time slot. They often have timed entries to manage crowds, so choose wisely. I went for a morning slot to avoid the afternoon rush. Payment is secure, and you get an e-ticket sent to your email—super convenient. Pro tip: Check if they offer combo tickets with special exhibits. I snagged one for the dinosaur gallery, and it was worth every penny! Also, weekdays are usually less packed if you hate queues.

I checked the listings because I was itching to see 'Wild Robot' on the big screen, and the short version is: yes, you can usually book Cineworld tickets online — as long as Cineworld is showing the film at a location near you. I’ve done it a few times and it’s straightforward: go to the Cineworld website or use their mobile app, search for 'Wild Robot', pick your cinema and showtime, reserve seats on the seat map, and pay with card or mobile wallet. You’ll get an e-ticket or a booking reference in your email, and the app will often hold the ticket for scanning at the door. A few practical tips from my own experience: if it's a family or kids screening, check age guidance and whether there's a relaxed screening option. If you want a premium experience, look for IMAX, Superscreen, or 4DX options and be ready for higher prices. Membership perks like discounted tickets or priority booking sometimes apply — I snagged cheaper seats once with a promo code. Also, double-check refund and exchange rules; typically tickets aren’t refundable unless Cineworld cancels or changes the screening, but they’ll let you rebook in some cases. Finally, arrive a little early to grab snacks and settle in, and keep your booking email or the app QR code handy. I love that the whole process gets me from the sofa to the big screen with minimal fuss — can’t wait to see how 'Wild Robot' looks in a dark cinema!

I got the email the second time it blew up my phone — and honestly, if your 'TXT' Houston show was canceled you should be in good shape for a refund, but there are a few moving parts to watch out for. From what I've dealt with and seen in fan groups, refunds for canceled shows are usually handled by whoever sold your ticket: Ticketmaster, Live Nation, the venue box office, or a fan club platform. If the event is truly canceled (not postponed), most major sellers will automatically process refunds to the original payment method. That can take anywhere from a few business days to several weeks — I once waited about three billing cycles for a refund to post because my bank processed it slowly. Keep your order confirmation email and the event cancellation notice; those are gold when talking to customer service. If you bought through a resale marketplace like StubHub or SeatGeek, check their guarantee policies — they often handle refunds differently and might issue a credit or give you seller-protection options. VIP packages and exclusive experiences sometimes have separate rules, so don’t assume merchandise or add-ons are automatically refundable. Practical tip: screenshot everything, follow the official 'TXT' social accounts and the venue, and contact the seller with your order number first. Only if that stalls should you consider contacting your bank or filing a chargeback — and even then, explain that you tried the seller first. I know waiting sucks, but patience plus good documentation usually gets the money back without drama.