Can Ikea Bror Be Used As A Garage Workbench?

I keep a BROR unit on my covered balcony and I admit I've grown fond of it — it's bulky, unapologetically utilitarian, and holds everything from potted plants to heavy toolboxes without sagging. The metal frame is tough: it's treated steel with a protective finish that resists indoor moisture and garage dust, which is why IKEA markets it for garages, laundry rooms, and balconies. That said, it wasn't engineered to be left fully exposed to driving rain, UV, or salty seaside air for years on end. In practice, BROR works well outdoors if you treat the situation like a semi-outdoor setup. Mine sits under an overhang so it avoids direct rainfall; I added rubber feet to keep the legs off the concrete and switched the standard bolts to stainless steel to reduce corrosion risk. I also spray-painted any scratched surfaces with a rust-inhibiting primer and topcoat every couple of seasons. Those small chores have kept it looking and functioning great, but I know others who've put BROR in totally exposed spots and seen rust creep in around joints within a year. If you need shelving that will survive constant weather, go for purpose-made outdoor metal or stainless options, or plan to protect BROR with a tarp or roof. But for covered patios, porches, or garages where it won't get hammered by the elements, BROR is a solid, heavy-duty, budget-friendly choice — just expect some ongoing maintenance if you care about appearance, and be extra careful in coastal climates. I still like mine; it's one of those dependable pieces that makes weekend projects less annoying.

If your 'BROR' unit is missing a bolt, a panel, or a caster, the fastest local move I make is heading straight to the IKEA customer service desk. I usually bring a photo of the part and the whole shelf — that little label with the product name and article number helps a ton. Most IKEA stores will either have common spare parts at the desk or can order the exact piece to be held for pickup at the store; it's quicker than waiting for a national delivery. I also check the IKEA app or website on my phone while standing in the parking lot so I can quote the part name or number to the team inside. If IKEA doesn’t have what I need, I hit local hardware stores next — think Home Depot, Lowe’s, Ace Hardware, or neighborhood independent suppliers. For BROR, a lot of the replacements are standard metal fittings and metric bolts (M6, M8 are common), so a hardware counter can usually match screws, washers, casters, and sometimes shelf brackets. For the heavy steel uprights or uniquely shaped metal parts, I’ll go to a local metal shop or a welding/fabrication shop; they can reproduce a bracket or weld a reinforcement for less hassle than hunting down a discontinued IKEA piece. I’ve also had luck at salvage yards and local furniture reclamation stores for used BROR parts when a fresher look wasn’t a priority. Finally, community options are underrated: local buy/sell groups on Facebook, Craigslist, and neighborhood apps often have people selling spare parts or entire BROR frames at a discount, and repair cafes or maker spaces sometimes have compatible hardware or people who’ll fabricate something. When matching parts, I always take the old piece with me, note measurements, and test-fit any fastener before leaving the store. It’s a little dance between IKEA first, then hardware and local makers — but it usually gets the shelf back in shape, and I’m oddly proud every time something that looked scrap gets revived.

BROR's shelving is a real workhorse — in my garage it's saved me from three different shelving meltdowns. IKEA's technical details list the safe load per shelf at about 65 kg (roughly 143 lb) when the load is evenly distributed. That number assumes correct assembly: the frame fully snapped together, the shelves sitting squarely, and the unit anchored or placed on a level surface. I've noticed that if you cram heavy stuff right in the middle or on a warped floor, the practical limit feels lower, so I treat 65 kg as a safe cap rather than a hard test figure. In practice, I do a few things to respect that rating and keep the shelves long-lived: put the heaviest boxes on the lowest shelf, spread weight across the shelf width, and tighten all bolts after a few weeks of settling. For oddly shaped or really dense items (toolboxes, bags of concrete mix), I'll add a thin sheet of plywood across the shelf to distribute point loads and reduce sag. BROR is built from thick steel and is much tougher than typical flat-pack shelves, but respecting the 65 kg guideline and using anchors or anti-tip brackets keeps my setup reliable — I love how solid it feels when everything's loaded right.

Grab your favorite snack and a flat workspace — I like to lay out everything on a rug so metal parts don't scratch the floor. First I check that all pieces from the box are accounted for: the rectangular frames (uprights), crossbars, shelf panels, shelf brackets, bolts, washers, nuts, leveling feet, and wall brackets. I organize the hardware into little piles so I don’t hunt for M8s while holding a heavy shelf. I also keep the Allen key IKEA gives nearby, but I usually bring a socket wrench with a low-torque bit to speed things up. I start by loosely assembling the two upright frames: put the short crossbars between them and thread bolts in without fully tightening. That loose first pass keeps everything square and lets me make small alignment adjustments. Next I slide the bottom shelf panel into place (BROR is happiest if you build bottom-up so the unit is stable early). Secure each shelf with the provided bolts and washers, tightening a little at a time and alternating bolts so the stress is even. After every couple of shelves I tighten everything properly, check vertical plumb with a level, and thread in leveling feet — they make the world of difference on uneven floors. Before I stand the shelving up, I attach the wall bracket and prepare anchors for studs if possible; BROR is heavy-duty but you should always anchor tall racks. When the rack is upright I fine-tune the leveling, tighten all fasteners, and put heavier items on lower shelves. If I’m joining multiple units I bolt them together through the linking holes. Tip: don’t overtighten and strip the threads — snug and even is better. I always finish by wiping down the metal to remove fingerprints; it just looks cleaner and feels satisfying when it’s done.

Transforming my BROR into a real-looking bookshelf was one of those projects that felt intimidating until I started — and then it became kind of addictive. I began by treating the metal frame like a skeleton and thinking of the wood elements as the skin and clothes. First, measure the frame carefully: shelf depth, height between shelves, and the outer edges where you want trim. I cut plywood or pine boards to fit the shelf surfaces, then edge-banded them so the plywood edges didn’t scream 'IKEA hack.' For the back, I used 1/4" plywood or hardboard and attached it with screws into the metal uprights using small metal brackets; that gives it the closed-back look most bookshelves have, plus it hides the industrial gaps. Next, I worked on aesthetics: attaching thicker wooden face frames or trim to the front of each shelf visually thickens the shelves and mimics built-in cabinetry. You can router a small profile into the trim for a classic look, or just keep it square for a modern vibe. Sand, prime, and paint or stain everything before final assembly so you don’t wrestle paint onto the metal frame later. I used countersunk screws and wood filler for a clean finish. Practical bits matter: anchor the whole thing to studs because BROR is heavy and books are heavier. Add LED strips under the shelves for mood, or fit a couple of cabinet doors if you want closed storage. Little details — edge banding, decorative feet, or a top crown molding — transform the industrial frame into a cozy, book-lined statement piece. I still grin whenever I walk past mine; it feels like furniture that belongs in the room rather than a shelving unit waiting in a warehouse.