When Did Lando Norris Haircut First Appear In Public?

Man, Yuta's haircut from 'Jujutsu Kaisen' is such a vibe—messy yet intentional, with that slightly uneven fringe and layered texture. It reminds me of classic shonen protagonists but with a modern twist. Characters like Eren Yeager from 'Attack on Titan' in later seasons have a similar rugged look, though Eren’s is more chaotic. Then there’s Kaneki Ken from 'Tokyo Ghoul' during his black-haired phase; the asymmetry matches Yuta’s style. Even Izuku Midoriya’s curls in 'My Hero Academia' share that 'just rolled out of bed' energy, though his are softer. What’s cool is how Yuta’s cut reflects his personality—reserved but capable of wild moments. It’s not as polished as, say, Gojo’s, but that’s the point. If you dig deeper, you’ll spot parallels in older series too, like Yusuke Urameshi from 'Yu Yu Hakusho' with his spiky crown. It’s a haircut that screams 'underdog with hidden power,' and I’m here for it.

Biggy Norris is born on January 24, 2008, which means in 2024 he will turn 16. It's crazy to see how quickly talent shines through!

Ever since I saw Yuta's iconic look in 'Jujutsu Kaisen 0', I've been obsessed with that effortlessly cool haircut. After experimenting with it myself and watching others try it, I think oval faces pull it off best. The layered, slightly messy style balances out the proportions of an oval face, especially with those longer sideburns framing the jawline. Square faces can rock it too if the top is kept voluminous to soften sharp angles. Round faces might struggle unless the hair has enough height on top to elongate the silhouette. Heart-shaped faces? Absolutely! The wispy bangs complement wider foreheads beautifully. Honestly, seeing cosplayers with different face shapes adapt the cut (some adding slight asymmetrical fringes or adjusting the back length) proved how versatile it can be when tailored right. That's the magic of Yuta's style—it's a mood as much as a haircut.

I get a little excited talking about this one because Lando’s hair has such a recognizable vibe — it’s the kind of cut that looks effortless but actually needs some thought behind it. From what I’ve picked up watching his Instagram stories and paddock photos, he usually gets the cut done at a proper barber or salon when he’s home (often between Bristol, where he’s from, and London or Monaco depending on the season). When he’s at races the finishing touches are often done by whoever’s on hand in the hospitality area or a team stylist; that’s why sometimes it looks slightly more polished at circuits compared to his casual at-home snaps. The style itself is a textured crop with a neat taper on the sides and a bit more length left on top to push forward or to the side. Barbers achieve that look with scissor texturizing on the crown and a soft clipper fade on the sides, finished with point-cutting to create movement. For styling he seems to favor a matte product — think light paste or a clay — applied to slightly damp hair, then finger-combed or blow-dried for natural separation rather than a slick look. If you’re trying to replicate it, ask for a medium-length textured top, soft taper, and a barber comfortable with blending scissor work into clippers. Keep it trimmed every three to five weeks to maintain the shape. Honestly, it’s one of those sporty-but-clean looks that suits him perfectly and is surprisingly easy to live with between cuts.

If you want a taper Edgar that reads sharp but still has texture, I usually reach for a few core products and a little technique. I like to start with a light pre-styler — a sea salt spray or a lightweight mousse — sprayed into damp hair so the top keeps some grit and hold without getting crunchy. Blow-drying on low while using my fingers to push the fringe forward gives that blunt, chiseled line Edgar cuts are known for. After that I work in a matte clay or fiber paste for texture and structure. I use a pea- to nickel-sized amount rubbed between my palms, then scrunched through the top and finished by shaping the fringe with the pads of my fingers. For thinner hair, a volumizing powder at the roots helps the taper look balanced; for thicker hair a stronger clay (think Hanz de Fuko Claymation or a heavy American Crew fiber) tames bulk. A light mist of flexible hairspray seals everything without the helmet feel. I always carry a small travel pomade for touch-ups — it helps smooth the sides and keep the taper crisp throughout the day. In short, texture first, matte hold second, and small touch-ups for the fringe; that combo keeps my taper Edgar looking intentional and lived-in.

I can't help but geek out over the hockey flow — it's one of those styles that looks effortless but actually wants a little intention. For a classic, wearable flow I aim for about 6–10 inches (15–25 cm) at the longest points: that’s usually the crown and the back. The idea is for the hair to sit past the ears and either kiss the collar or fall to the top of the shoulders when it’s straight. Shorter than about 6 inches usually won’t give you that sweeping, helmet-buffed look; much longer than 10–12 inches starts to feel more like a mane than a flow, unless you want a dramatic version. Sides and layers are where the cut makes or breaks. I like the sides to be blended but not buzzed — somewhere around 3–5 inches (7–13 cm) so the hair can tuck behind the ears or sweep back without looking boxy. Ask for long, textured layers through the back to remove bulk and create movement; point-cutting or razor texturizing helps thin thick hair so it won’t balloon out. The neckline should be natural and slightly shaggy rather than cleanly tapered — that soft, lived-in edge is part of the charm. Styling-wise, I keep it low-effort: towel dry, apply a light sea-salt spray or creamy texturizer, then either let it air dry or rough-blow and brush back with fingers. If you wear helmets, add an extra half-inch to the crown so the flow re-forms after sessions. Trim every 6–10 weeks to maintain shape, and be open with your barber about how much helmet time you get — that little detail changes the exact length I request. I love how the right length turns a messy mop into something that actually feels stylish and sporty.

Hunting for a Lando Norris Funko Pop can become a full-on treasure hunt, and I love that about it. I usually start at the obvious places: the official Funko Shop and the McLaren or official driver store, because they sometimes list exclusive runs or officially licensed figures. Amazon and Entertainment Earth are my next stops — they’re reliable for new releases and preorders, and you can set price alerts with tools like Keepa so you don’t miss a drop. If it’s a sold-out or exclusive variant, eBay and Mercari become lifesavers. I always check seller ratings, photos of the actual item (not stock images), and the return policy before bidding. Pop Price Guide and the Funko app are great for checking rarity and fair market prices — they saved me from overpaying on a chase variant last year. For UK hunters, Zavvi, Forbidden Planet, and the official F1 store are worth watching, while Popcultcha or Pop In A Box serve collectors in Australia and Europe. Finally, don’t forget local comic shops, conventions, and Facebook collector groups — sometimes you’ll find someone trading or selling at a reasonable price without the markup. Pay with a protected method like PayPal Goods & Services where possible, and inspect the box for authentic stickers and clean printing. I snagged mine after stalking a seller for weeks, and the thrill of finally getting it still makes me grin every time I see it.

Wild thought: I ended up scouring listings just to track down a 'Lando Norris' Pop and it turned into a mini-obsession. Retail-wise these kinds of Funko Pops usually launched around the usual MSRP — think roughly $12–$15 USD from big retailers when they're in stock. That said, I paid more than retail because mine was a chase variant and boxed in perfect condition. On the secondary market prices bounce all over. If you're looking for a standard (sealed, common) piece, you're likely to find listings from about $18 up to $40 depending on seller, shipping, and region. Limited runs, chase figures, store exclusives, or autographed versions can push that into the $60–$200+ zone. I once negotiated a trade to shave off shipping fees and felt pretty proud about snagging a chase for much less. My tip: check several marketplaces like eBay and specialist Funko forums, compare completed sales, and watch for condition notes — the box matters for resale value, and scratched faces or dented corners will drop a price quickly. Personally, I love the little design details on the figure and think it's worth the hunt, even if the price can sting sometimes.