How Does M Vim Compare To Neovim For Plugins?

Got you — this kind of message can land like a gut punch, and the way you reply depends a lot on what you want: closure, boundaries, conversation, or nothing at all. I’ve been on both sides of messy breakups in fictional worlds and real life, and that mix of heartache and weird nostalgia is something I can empathize with. Below I’ll give practical ways to respond depending on the goal you choose, plus a few do’s and don’ts so your words actually serve you rather than stir up more drama. If you want to be calm and firm (boundaries-first): be short, clear, and non-negotiable. Example lines: 'I appreciate you sharing, but I’m focused on my life now and don’t want to reopen things.' Or, 'I understand you’re feeling regret. I don’t want to rehash the past — please don’t contact me about this again.' These replies make your limits obvious without dragging you into justifications. Use neutral language, avoid sarcasm, and don’t offer a timeline for contact; closure is yours to set. If you want to acknowledge but keep it gentle (polite, low-engagement): say something that validates but doesn’t invite more. Try: 'Thanks for saying that. I hope you find peace with it.' Or, 'I recognize that this is hard for you. I’m not available to talk about our marriage, but I wish you well.' These are good when you don’t want to be icy but also don’t want the message to escalate. If you prefer slightly warmer but still distant: 'I’m glad you’re confronting your feelings. I’m taking care of myself and not revisiting the past.' If you want to explore or consider reconciliation (only if you actually mean it): be very careful and set boundaries for any conversation. You could say: 'I hear you. If you want to talk about what regret looks like and what’s different now, we can have a single, honest conversation in person or with a counselor.' That keeps things structured and avoids a free-for-all of messages. Don’t jump straight to emotional reunions over text; insist on a safe, clear format. If you want no reply at all: silence is a reply. Blocking or not responding can be the cleanest protection when the relationship is over and the other person’s message is more about making themselves feel better than respecting your space. A few quick rules that helped me: keep your tone consistent with your boundary, don’t negotiate over text if the topic is heavy, don’t promise things you aren’t certain about, and avoid long explanations that give openings for more. Trust your gut: if the message makes you feel off, protect your mental space. Personally, I favor brief clarity over messy empathy — it keeps the drama minimal and my life moving forward, and that’s been a relief every time.

Totally hit this snag before — you open a file in vim, make your edits, and then bam: permission denied when you try to save. The neat little trick I use most often is this one-liner from inside vim: :w !sudo tee % >/dev/null What that does is write the buffer to the sudoed 'tee' command, which will overwrite the original file as root. The % expands to the current filename, so the full flow is: vim hands the file contents to sudo tee, tee writes it with elevated rights, and the >/dev/null part hides the tee output so your buffer stays as-is. After that you can do :q to quit. I like this because it’s fast and doesn’t require reopening the file as root. If you want a slightly cleaner approach, consider using sudoedit (sudo -e) to open files with your preferred editor as a temporary safe copy — it edits a temp file and then installs it as root, which is safer from a security perspective. For convenience I sometimes create a vim command or mapping, like cnoremap W!! w !sudo tee % >/dev/null, so typing :W!! saves without fuss. Also, if you frequently need root saves, the plugin 'sudo.vim' (provides commands like :SudoWrite) is worth installing. Each method has trade-offs: the tee trick is quick, sudoedit is safer, and opening vim with sudo from the start (sudo vim file) works but bypasses some safety models.

If I had to pick a short list right off the bat, I'd put chrome-vanadium and S2 tool steel at the top for most durable vim wrench models. Chrome-vanadium (Cr-V) is what you'll see on a lot of high-quality ratchets and hex sets—it balances hardness and toughness well, resists wear, and takes a nice finish. S2 is a shock-resisting tool steel that's common for bits and hex keys designed to take a lot of torque without snapping. For heavy, impact-style use, chrome-molybdenum (Cr-Mo) or 4140/6150 alloys are common because they absorb shocks better and can be heat-treated for high strength. Finish and heat treatment matter as much as base alloy. Hardened and tempered tools in the HRC 52–62 range tend to last; too hard and they become brittle, too soft and they round off. Coatings like black oxide, phosphate, or nickel chrome help with corrosion; TiN or other nitriding can up wear resistance. In short: pick S2 or Cr-V for everyday durability, Cr-Mo for impact-duty, and pay attention to heat treatment and finish for real longevity. I tend to favor sets with solid forging and clear HRC specs—that’s saved me from snapping a hex at an awkward moment.

Honestly, I treat my tools a little like prized comics on a shelf — I handle them, clean them, and protect them so they last. When it comes to a vim wrench, the simplest habit is the most powerful: wipe it down after every use. I keep a small stash of lint-free rags and a bottle of light machine oil next to my bench. After I finish a job I wipe off grit and sweat, spray a little solvent if there’s grime, dry it, then apply a thin coat of oil with a rag so there’s no wet residue to attract rust. For bits of surface rust that sneak in, I’ll use fine steel wool or a brass brush to take it off, then neutralize any remaining rust with a vinegar soak followed by a baking soda rinse if I’ve used acid. For long-term protection I like wax — a microcrystalline wax like Renaissance or even paste car wax gives a water-repellent layer that’s pleasantly invisible. If the wrench has moving parts, I disassemble and grease joints lightly and check for play. Storage matters almost as much as treatment: a dry toolbox with silica gel packets, not left in a damp car or basement, keeps rust away. Little routines add up — a five-minute wipe and oil once a month will make that wrench feel like new for years.

Alright, this is one of those questions where a little detective work helps — “k i'm m” could be a typo or shorthand, so I’ll walk through possibilities and tell you where I usually check for legal streams. I’m a die-hard show-binger in my late twenties who keeps a messy watchlist and a spreadsheet of where things are available, so here’s how I approach it when a title is unclear or hard to find. First, try to figure out what the title actually is: sometimes people mean 'K', 'K-ON!', 'Kimi ni Todoke', 'Komi Can't Communicate', or even 'Kimi no Na wa'. Each of those has appeared on different services over the years, so the fastest route is to use an aggregator site (more on that below) or check the official distributor account on Twitter/Instagram — they often post streaming news. If you want concrete places to check, start with the big legal platforms: Crunchyroll, Funimation (or its catalog now under Crunchyroll in some regions), Netflix, Hulu, and HiDive. Amazon Prime Video also sells and sometimes streams seasons, and Apple iTunes/Google Play let you buy or rent episodes. For older or niche shows, look at Tubi, Pluto TV, and RetroCrush (they’re ad-supported but legal). YouTube sometimes has official channels that post episodes or whole seasons for rent. Another useful trick: use aggregator services like JustWatch or Reelgood — I use JustWatch on my phone all the time — type the title (or what you think it is) and it tells you which platforms in your country are currently streaming, renting, or selling it. That saves a ton of guesswork and keeps everything legal. If the short form you typed was actually 'K' (the anime with gangs and supernatural powers), I've seen it rotate between Crunchyroll and other licensor platforms depending on region. If you meant 'K-ON!' I’ve caught it on streaming services and also bought the Blu-ray because the music is worth it. For 'Kimi no Na wa' (the movie), it pops up on Netflix in some regions or can be rented on the usual stores. 'Komi Can't Communicate' has been on Netflix in many countries. But availability changes, so assume nothing is permanent without checking an up-to-date source. Finally, a couple of practical tips from my own watching habits: avoid shady streaming sites — they can cost you more than a dodgy ad experience, and they don’t support the creators. If you can’t find it streaming legally, check if the series is out on Blu-ray or DVD — local libraries sometimes carry discs too, and I’ve rescued obscure titles that way when streaming options were nonexistent. If you want, tell me the exact spelling or drop a screenshot of the cover or a character name and I’ll help pinpoint where it’s streaming right now; I love a good title hunt and have probably wasted a weekend chasing down where a show lives online.

If you're running MacVim (the mvim command) on macOS, the simplest, most reliable route for me has been vim-plug. It just feels clean: drop a tiny bootstrap file into ~/.vim/autoload, add a few lines to ~/.vimrc, then let the plugin manager handle the rest. For vim-plug I run: curl -fLo ~/.vim/autoload/plug.vim --create-dirs https://raw.githubusercontent.com/junegunn/vim-plug/master/plug.vim. After that I edit ~/.vimrc and add: call plug#begin('~/.vim/plugged') Plug 'tpope/vim-sensible' Plug 'junegunn/fzf', { 'do': { -> fzf#install() } } call plug#end() Then I launch MacVim with mvim and run :PlugInstall (or from the shell mvim +PlugInstall +qall) and watch the plugins clone and install. A few handy things: if a plugin needs build steps, check its README; some require ctags, ripgrep, or Python support. Also remember MacVim reads your ~/.vimrc (and you can put GUI tweaks in ~/.gvimrc). If you prefer built-in package management, the pack/start method works too: mkdir -p ~/.vim/pack/vendor/start && git clone ~/.vim/pack/vendor/start/, then restart mvim.

Oh wow, trimming 'mvim' startup is one of those tiny joys that makes the whole day smoother. I usually start by profiling so I know what's actually slow: run mvim --startuptime ~/vim-startup.log and open that log. It quickly shows which scripts or plugins dominate time. Once I know the culprits, I move heavy things into autoload or optional plugin folders so they only load when needed. Next, I use lazy-loading with a plugin manager like 'vim-plug' (Plug 'foo', { 'on': 'SomeCommand' } or 'for': ['python', 'javascript']). Put plugins you need immediately in 'start' and everything else in 'opt' or load by filetype. Also disable unnecessary providers (let g:loaded_python_provider = 0, let g:loaded_ruby_provider = 0) if you don't use them — that shave off seconds. Finally, keep UI tweaks minimal for GUI start: font fallback, complex statuslines and external helpers (like large LSPs) can wait until you open a project. After a few iterations of profile → defer → test, 'mvim' feels snappy and more pleasant to use.

Oh, this one used to confuse me too — Vim's mark system is a little quirky if you come from editors with numbered bookmarks. The short practical rule I use now: the m command only accepts letters. So m followed by a lowercase letter (ma, mb...) sets a local mark in the current file; uppercase letters (mA, mB...) set marks that can point to other files too. Digits and the special single-character marks (like '.', '^', '"', '[', ']', '<', '>') are not something you can create with m. Those numeric marks ('0 through '9) and the special marks are managed by Vim itself — they record jumps, last change, insert position, visual selection bounds, etc. You can jump to them with ' or ` but you can't set them manually with m. If you want to inspect what's set, :marks is your friend; :delmarks removes marks. I often keep a tiny cheat sheet pasted on my wall: use lowercase for local spots, uppercase for file-spanning marks, and let Vim manage the numbered/special ones — they’re there for navigation history and edits, not manual bookmarking.