Is 'Fish Suit Mustache' Getting A Movie Adaptation?

On slow mornings when my hair decides to puff up like it has plans of its own, I really lean into lightweight, texture-first products. For a low taper fade with fluffy hair you want stuff that gives separation and hold without flattening the volume — think sea salt spray as a pre-styler, a light matte clay or cream for shaping, and a fine texturizing powder at the roots when you need an extra lift. I usually spritz a salt spray into towel-damp hair, scrunch with my fingers, then blow-dry on low with a round brush or my hand to encourage the fluff rather than smoothing it down. If I'm going out and want that lived-in look, I follow with a pea-sized amount of water-based matte clay worked between my palms, then rake through the top and crown. For stubborn spots I'll use a little fiber or paste for extra grip, but sparingly — too much product kills the airiness. A light flexible hairspray keeps everything in place without turning the style into armor. Maintenance-wise, a sulfate-free shampoo every other day and a dry shampoo on day two keeps the shape without weighing the hair down, and a leave-in conditioner used only on the ends prevents frizz. This combo keeps the fade crisp and the fluffy top lively, which I love because it looks styled but still effortless, like I actually slept well even if I didn't.

Let me walk you through my favorite setup for drawing Deku if you want something simple but effective. I start with a couple of pencils: an HB or B for construction lines and a 2B or 4B for darker linework and quick shading. A small, soft kneaded eraser and a clean vinyl eraser are lifesavers — kneaded for gentle highlights and vinyl for stubborn marks. For paper, a smooth sketchbook or a sheet of Bristol (smooth surface) keeps lines crisp and works well if you decide to ink. For inking I like thin-felt pens (0.1–0.5) and a brush pen for hair strands and dynamic line weight. If you want color later, cheap alcohol markers or a handful of colored pencils (greens, skin tones, and a few neutrals) cover Deku’s palette. For easy tutorials, pick ones that break Deku down into simple shapes: circle for the skull, cross-line for facial direction, rectangles for the torso. Tracing paper or a window tracing method is perfect for early practice, and a lightbox is a nice upgrade. Practice expression sheets, three-quarter head rotations, and quick gesture poses to capture his energy from 'My Hero Academia'. I find this combo keeps the process fun and not intimidating, and I usually end up smiling at the results.

Costume choices in kids' shows are sneaky genius, and Sportacus' mustache-and-goggles combo is a perfect example. The mustache gives him that old-school daredevil, circus-performer charm — a tiny, dependable visual anchor on a face that’s constantly moving and smiling. For a televised superhero who flips, runs, and bounces around sets, the moustache makes his expressions readable from a distance and gives him a slightly mature, captain-like presence without being scary. The goggles do double duty: they read as sporty safety gear (you could imagine him zooming through the air and protecting his eyes), and they also add a futuristic, pilotish flair that separates him from plain gym-teacher types. Together they create an instantly recognizable silhouette that kids can imitate with costumes and toys. Beyond aesthetics, those elements worked brilliantly for merchandising and character continuity. I used to wear plastic goggles and draw tiny moustaches on superhero sketches, which shows how much the look encouraged play and identity — a perfect mix of practical protection and theatrical style that still makes me grin.

Hunting down vintage cartoon fish merchandise feels a bit like going on a tiny treasure hunt, and I love every minute of it. I usually start online — eBay and Etsy are the obvious first stops because they have huge archives and you can set searches and saved alerts for keywords like 'vintage fish toy', 'retro fish plush', or 'cartoon fish pin'. Mercari and Depop are great for younger sellers unloading attic finds, and don't forget specialty auction sites like Heritage Auctions or LiveAuctioneers for higher-end pieces. Outside the internet, I haunt local thrift stores, estate sales, and flea markets. Antique malls and specialty toy shops often have hidden gems; I’ve snagged odd ceramic fish figurines and enamel pins at weekend markets. Comic-cons and vintage toy shows also host dealers who specialize in character merch — even if you don’t buy, it’s a good way to learn makers' marks and price ranges. A few tips I swear by: take lots of photos and ask for provenance if the seller claims it’s collectible; check for maker marks, condition issues like paint flake or hairline cracks, and be mindful of repros. For fragile or high-value items, factor in shipping insurance. It’s such a satisfying hobby — finding a quirky vintage fish pin or a faded lunchbox feels like rescuing a tiny piece of someone’s childhood, and that thrill never gets old.

Oddly enough, the history of cartoon fish is messier and more charming than you'd expect. I like to trace their roots back to the very birth of animation — the 1910s and 1920s — when film pioneers were doodling all kinds of creatures, including sea life, as part of experimental shorts. Early animated loops and novelty films often used fish and underwater scenes because they were visually playful and let animators stretch physics for gags. By the 1930s, studios like Disney and Fleischer were churning out theatrical shorts that featured anthropomorphic animals and occasional fish characters, giving those creations wider exposure in movie theaters. So pinning a single "first popular" fish is tricky: popularity came in waves. The medium matured through decades, and then later decades gave us unmistakable mainstream fish icons — my favorites being the bright, personality-driven characters from films like 'The Little Mermaid' and 'Finding Nemo'. Those later hits crystallized what a beloved cartoon fish could be, but the lineage goes back to those early silent-era experiments, and I find that long, winding evolution pretty delightful.

My go-to brush collection for watercolor cupcakes reads like a little team of quirky friends: a big round for the base wash, a medium round for shaping the frosting, a very small round or 000 for sprinkles and fine lines, and a rigger/liner for those delicate swirl tails. I usually reach for a Kolinsky-style round (sizes 6–10 for the dome of the frosting, 2–4 for midtones, and 0–000 for detailing) because the tip holds a sharp point while the belly stores enough water for smooth, consistent strokes. When I'm doing wet-on-wet buttercream blends I love using a mop or a large round (size 12–14) to lay down soft gradients without hard edges. For texture — like the crackle on a sugar cookie base or the crumbly edges of a cupcake — a dry brush or a stiff synthetic filbert gives that pleasing roughness. A rigger or round liner is my secret weapon for long chocolate drips and tiny sprinkle strings; its long hairs keep a steady, even line. Toss in a small fan for light powdered sugar effects and a spotter for tiny dots and you're set. Brush care matters: rinse in clean water, reshape tips, never leave brushes standing in water, and use a gentle soap now and then. I pair these brushes with 300gsm cold-pressed paper and a limited watercolor palette so the cupcake colors stay deliciously vibrant. Painting cupcakes feels like baking without an oven — buttery, forgiving, and oddly calming.

especially for balancing a round face. For me the key is adding height and angles: look for hats with a taller crown and a medium-to-wide brim that’s slightly angled or asymmetric. A fedora-style with a defined pinch at the crown or a teardrop/top-dented crown creates a vertical line that lengthens the face. I also love rancher-style hats with a crisp brim because the straighter brim edge gives a nice contrast to softer facial curves. Avoid super round crowns, tiny brims, or extremely floppy bucket-like styles that echo the shape of your face. Materials matter too — firmer felts keep their shape and provide that structure you want, while floppy straw or overly soft knit can swallow features. Color-wise, a darker brim or a hat with a subtle band draws the eye upward and adds definition. Styling tips I live by: tilt the hat slightly back or to the side to expose some forehead, pair it with longer hair or vertical earrings to elongate the silhouette, and try a side part to break the roundness. When I wear my structured Gigi Pip hat this way, my face feels framed instead of boxed in, and I walk out feeling a little bolder.

Whenever I pick up a pencil to design Miles' suit I like to start with a clear silhouette — that single shape has to read from a distance and scream 'Spider' without losing Miles' street-smart vibe. I usually sketch a few quick silhouettes first: low, crouched, high-leap, and a relaxed standing pose. Each silhouette tells me how the suit will fold and stretch. From there I lock proportion choices: slightly lankier limbs than Peter's classic proportions, a smaller torso, and a mask with larger expressive eyes. Those eye shapes are everything for emotion — try different crescent sizes until the face feels young and agile. Once the pose and silhouette are nailed, I dive into surface design. The classic Miles color scheme is bold: mostly black with red webbing and a red spider emblem. Play with where the red lives — full chest emblem, neck-to-shoulder streaks, or a fragmented graffiti-like design. I love asymmetry: one arm with tighter webbing, the other with a smoother black sleeve, or a red glove only on one hand. For webbing, draw lines that radiate from the center of the emblem and have them curve with the torso; make the lines thicker toward the center to sell depth. The mask's eye lenses can be simple white shapes or stylized with a faint black rim — think about how those eyes will read in silhouette and close-up. Texture is crucial: decide whether the suit is matte athletic fabric, glossy tactical rubber, or a layered hoodie-over-suit look. I often add a visible seam pattern, subtle fabric weave, or paint-splatter grit to keep the street-art feel inspired by 'Spider-Man: Into the Spider-Verse'. When it comes to rendering, lighting makes the design pop. Use a strong rim light to separate Miles from dark backgrounds, and a soft colored fill (cool blue or cyan) to hint at his venom powers. For highlights, choose a slightly desaturated red for midtones and a bright saturated red for speculars; black stays deep but allow subtle reflections to suggest the material. Small details sell realism: scuffed sneakers, a folded hood, taped fingers, or a small graffiti sticker on the belt. Don’t forget narrative variants — a stealth black-on-black suit, a punk-styled jacket variation, or a high-tech armored take for different stories. Above all, iterate: thumbnails, light-and-shadow studies, and quick color passes will help you find the best combination. I get a real kick out of experimenting with one tiny tweak — a different spider emblem or swapped sleeve color — and suddenly Miles feels fresh again.