A Christmas Miracle
Are you going crazy?
I threw myself in the salt water, feeling the board slide gently. I paddled hard until I felt that there was only me, the board and the sea. Surfing was like writing poetry. Is that what Manu wrote? There I was thinking of Manuela Toothless again. I sat on the board and waited for the big moment, the big wave. And when she started showing off, I threw myself face down on the board, and I started rowing. As she approached, I stood up and started sliding, gaining speed. It took a few seconds before you dropped me on her. I loved that. I felt a new wave go over me and i returned to the surface in search of new breath. I could have been there all day if something on the edge