Dear Stepbrother
well, it was because I was dying.
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Early this morning, I went out to surf, just like I always did. It was just a normal day, like any other day. The waves were good, the water was glassy. It was all just fine and dandy, until suddenly, out came this gigantic tidal wave. I tried to ride it out, but the changing currents and strong winds pushed me further and further away from the shore. I knew not to panic, I kept my cool. I paddled and dove back towards the shore, but the rip current was too strong. I would have tried to call for help, except there was no one around.
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